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Motherlode Rock - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belleville TR 
Black Bart S 
Blasting Cap S 
Cap Gun T 
Dust in the Wind T 
Fire in the Hole S 
Fools Gold T 
Golden Gloves S 
Golden Nugget S 
Lodestone S 
Motherlode S 
Out of Our Mines S 
Psychedelic Sluice T 
Shantytown Swing S 
Wildrose S 

Psychedelic Sluice 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Chris Miller & Rick Shull, 1989
Page Views: 4,453
Submitted By: Rick Shull on Jun 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (87)
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BETA PHOTO: Psychedelic Sluice (5.6), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Description 

A fun, easy to protect crack that begins with the crux right off the ground. Getting up to the first gear placement may be a touch more difficult for those under 5'10"

Location 

You will find this crack between Black Bart and Shantytown Swing.

Protection 

Gear to 2" with a small nut or two for the thinner middle section. Bolted anchor shared with Shantytown Swing to the right.


Photos of Psychedelic Sluice Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Psychedelic.
Psychedelic.
Rock Climbing Photo: Indira looking for the next foothold to move up.
BETA PHOTO: Indira looking for the next foothold to move up.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason comfortably looking for a pro for his first ...
BETA PHOTO: Jason comfortably looking for a pro for his first ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Indira leading. Getting into a good position.
BETA PHOTO: Indira leading. Getting into a good position.
Rock Climbing Photo: Al Sanderson cruisin' on his Psychadelic Psolo.
Al Sanderson cruisin' on his Psychadelic Psolo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Great last climb of the day.
Great last climb of the day.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason moving up and looking for his 2nd placement ...
BETA PHOTO: Jason moving up and looking for his 2nd placement ...

Comments on Psychedelic Sluice Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 7, 2008

A real nice hand crack that eats gear pretty well. Also a good TR when you already have the rope on Shantytown Swing.
By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 25, 2011

Certainly worth carrying your rack to the crag for. Would be a superb first trad lead with easy placements, good stances, secure movement, and a bolted anchor. Likes cams .5-2.5"
By RockyR
From: Encinitas, CA
Aug 16, 2011

Indira lead and I followed. I find the initial start to get on the crack is the crux for me. I had to start from left side and then move over to the right. Great last climb of the day.
By Rob Selter
From: running springs Ca
May 1, 2012

Really fun route my 9 year old Daughter loved it. Would be a great first trad lead.
By MattMyers
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

High quality hand crack for its grade. It felt pretty soft for 5.6 trad, I highly recommend this climb.
By Kat S
From: Long Beach, CA
Jul 16, 2014

Great starter crack with killer foot jams.

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