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Pseudomania Area
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Pseudomania T,TR 

Pseudomania 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Sterling Wilson
Page Views: 645
Submitted By: TrevorB on Jan 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Pseudomania climbs the corner just inside the left...

Description 

Steep finger and hands corner through clean rock offering great pro. Can also be TR'd (with plenty of swing potential.)

Some of the jams have nice sharp features, taping is recommended unless you're a universal donor.

After you round the corner, its easy, juggy climbing to the top.

It would warrant more stars were it longer (and if I didn't get bit like mad by the mean-spirited ants at the bottom.)

Location 

From the top of the crag, this climb is directly below the rightmost hangers. Rap down onto a comfy (and scenic) ledge for access to the route.

Protection 

Pro from 1" to about 2.5"


Photos of Pseudomania Slideshow Add Photo
Kevin Brown just getting into the corner  (pre-blo...
Kevin Brown just getting into the corner (pre-blo...

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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 17, 2008

I visited this rarely visited crag with high hopes and tons of enthusiasm, but the latter and the former were running in short supply after the scrubby approach, the biting ants, and the bee nest. It felt like a truly an adventurous day in the Santa Barbara backcountry, even though the road was within view. The climb looks amazing, though. Short, but amazing.
By Richard Shore
Feb 12, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

As quality a line as The Nose on Gibraltar rock. Awesome and incredibly steep! the photos here do not do the overhang justice. a bit bouldery at the start and at the finish pulling around the lip. wild stemming moves with bomber hand jams towards the top. get on this thing!

The approach isnt bad from the trail atop Upper Gibraltar, especially now that all the manzanitas are burned up. A note about the rappel in to the base - it is very much free-hanging, and you almost miss the belay ledge on the way down. I reached my foot out to pull myself towards the ledge, but you could probably also swing back and forth if you arent as long-legged.
By Michelle Lynn
From: Moab, UT
Feb 5, 2012

Awesome little crack that packs a bunch of adventure. Without much trouble the rappel lands you on a little gangplank. We were lucky and escaped the ants. The crack is much steeper than it looks, but just as short. Recommended rack: .4-3 Camalot (optional doubles .5-2). Go climb it! Preferably at sunset.