Pseudo Wallet Eater 5.9
| 441 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Paul Mayrose, 1970 |
| Submitted By: | Errett Allen on Mar 12, 2004 |
| |
Photo by Errett Allen. Me on the first pitch. I ...
Add Photo  Printer View
Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice:
Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation.
Alligator Rock is also closed.
www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
|
Description Start about 30-40 feet left of the start of Osiris.
P1. Easy scramble past some bushes up into a wide chimney-crack system. You'll encounter a knot of backoff slings that you can't see from the ground about 90-100 feet up. From that point climb up and right under a diagonal jog in the crack system, then continue following it when it jogs straight up again (5.9) and belay on a nice but small ledge.
P2. Step right into an obvious crack/dihedral (5.7) and continue to a belay ledge where this route intersects Osiris.
P3a. Step right and follow a crack between Osiris and George's Tree, or....
P3b. Step back left and follow a series of closely spaced parallel cracks (5.7) to Fang Ledge, left of the Fang (this is what we did -- these are the numerous parallel cracks that are visibile and obvious from the approach trail -- the "pages" of the Book). I found these "Pages" surprisingly clean and fun.
P4.Follow Osiris to the top.If you are not one of the whiners who hates Osiris, you won't hate this route either. The only unenjoyable part of the route was the start.
Protection Standard trad rack up to 4 inch.
| Comments on Pseudo Wallet Eater |
|
By Errett Allen
Aug 20, 2004
| The right hand third pitch variation mentioned is quite good and goes at 5.9. Then you can follow the George's Tree finish to the top. |
By Cale Farnham
From: loveland,CO
Sep 10, 2008
| Small stuff up to #3 and #4 Camalot! Very unique and tricky in a few spots! Good protection and overall a fun climb! |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2010
rating: 5.9-
| F.A.: Paul Mayrose, 1970. |
|
RSS Feed
more...
