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Unsorted Routes:

Pseudo Wallet Eater 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Paul Mayrose, 1970
Page Views: 606
Submitted By: Errett Allen on Mar 12, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Photo by Errett Allen. Me on the first pitch. I ...

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start about 30-40 feet left of the start of Osiris.

P1. Easy scramble past some bushes up into a wide chimney-crack system. You'll encounter a knot of backoff slings that you can't see from the ground about 90-100 feet up. From that point climb up and right under a diagonal jog in the crack system, then continue following it when it jogs straight up again (5.9) and belay on a nice but small ledge.

P2. Step right into an obvious crack/dihedral (5.7) and continue to a belay ledge where this route intersects Osiris.

P3a. Step right and follow a crack between Osiris and George's Tree, or....

P3b. Step back left and follow a series of closely spaced parallel cracks (5.7) to Fang Ledge, left of the Fang (this is what we did -- these are the numerous parallel cracks that are visibile and obvious from the approach trail -- the "pages" of the Book). I found these "Pages" surprisingly clean and fun.

P4.Follow Osiris to the top.If you are not one of the whiners who hates Osiris, you won't hate this route either. The only unenjoyable part of the route was the start.

Protection 

Standard trad rack up to 4 inch.


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By Errett Allen
Aug 20, 2004

The right hand third pitch variation mentioned is quite good and goes at 5.9. Then you can follow the George's Tree finish to the top.
By Cale Farnham
Sep 10, 2008

Small stuff up to #3 and #4 Camalot! Very unique and tricky in a few spots! Good protection and overall a fun climb!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

F.A.: Paul Mayrose, 1970.