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Redgarden - S Buttress
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Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish 
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Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b PG13

Type: Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown, but probably early 1960s.
Season: Anytime rock is warm and dry!
Page Views: 401
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Jun 2, 2011
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Direct Finish.

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  • Description 

    This is a distinctly "old school" Eldorado route and is sparsely protected at the crux. Climb up the ramp for approximately 35-40 meters and find a belay stance. Looking upwards and right, follow some enjoyable face climbing angling towards a break in a small roof band extending across the face. Surmounting this small roof is the crux of the climb, and protection BITD was poor (knife blade pitions!). Some smaller nuts can be placed but the direction of pull makes for "interesting" climbing; it's best to be solid at the grade and not fall here! Above the roof band, the angle relents and the standard route is soon intersected. Follow the regular route for ~ 20 meters to the top.


    This uses the same start as the standard Pseudo Sidetrack.

    Scramble down the East Slabs, being very cautious in wet or icy conditions!


    Standard Eldorado rack, nothing very large.

    Photos of Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish Slideshow Add Photo
    E slabs descent from Upper Juniper Ledges.
    E slabs descent from Upper Juniper Ledges.
    Comments on Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish Add Comment
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    By Rodger Raubach
    Jun 2, 2011

    I actually climbed this in 1965 "by mistake" with Larry Dalke, while trying to figure out where Whistle Stop went. We climbed the first Whistle Stop pitch, but Dalke then angled right and surmounted the little roof by mistake. He yelled back down that it was "only 5.7."
    I later figured out that we had crossed over Pseudo Sidetrack; I subsequently led Pseudo Sidetrack using this variation several times in the mid 1960s. Not really recommended for a beginning 5.7 leader, since it's a "Dalke 5.7." It could be that Dalke and I cobbled together something of a "first ascent", but I'm not claiming one.

    By mtoensing
    From: Boulder
    Apr 4, 2013
    rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

    I OSS this and have repeated it since. I don't find it harder than anything else on the route. Makes for a great finish.