Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish 5.7 PG13
| 278 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 350 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | Unknown, but probably early 1960s. |
| Season: | Anytime rock is warm and dry! |
| Submitted By: | Rodger Raubach on Jun 2, 2011 |
| |
Direct Finish.
Add Photo  Printer View
2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons.
The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152
From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
|
|
Description This is a distinctly "old school" Eldorado route and is sparsely protected at the crux. Climb up the ramp for approximately 35-40 meters and find a belay stance. Looking upwards and right, follow some enjoyable face climbing angling towards a break in a small roof band extending across the face. Surmounting this small roof is the crux of the climb, and protection BITD was poor (knife blade pitions!). Some smaller nuts can be placed but the direction of pull makes for "interesting" climbing; it's best to be solid at the grade and not fall here! Above the roof band, the angle relents and the standard route is soon intersected. Follow the regular route for ~ 20 meters to the top.
Location This uses the same start as the standard Pseudo Sidetrack.
Scramble down the East Slabs, being very cautious in wet or icy conditions!
Protection Standard Eldorado rack, nothing very large.
E slabs descent from Upper Juniper Ledges.
| | |
| Comments on Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish |
|
By Rodger Raubach
Jun 2, 2011
| I actually climbed this in 1965 "by mistake" with Larry Dalke, while trying to figure out where Whistle Stop went. We climbed the first Whistle Stop pitch, but Dalke then angled right and surmounted the little roof by mistake. He yelled back down that it was "only 5.7."
I later figured out that we had crossed over Pseudo Sidetrack; I subsequently led Pseudo Sidetrack using this variation several times in the mid 1960s. Not really recommended for a beginning 5.7 leader, since it's a "Dalke 5.7." It could be that Dalke and I cobbled together something of a "first ascent", but I'm not claiming one. |
By Matt Toensing
From: Boulder
Apr 4, 2013
rating: 5.4
| I OSS this and have repeated it since. I don't find it harder than anything else on the route. Makes for a great finish. |
|
RSS Feed
more...
Slideshow