|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 350'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Unknown, but probably early 1960s.|
|Season:||Anytime rock is warm and dry!|
|Submitted By:||Rodger Raubach on Jun 2, 2011|
|Comments on Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish||Add Comment|
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By Rodger Raubach
Jun 2, 2011
I actually climbed this in 1965 "by mistake" with Larry Dalke, while trying to figure out where Whistle Stop went. We climbed the first Whistle Stop pitch, but Dalke then angled right and surmounted the little roof by mistake. He yelled back down that it was "only 5.7."
I later figured out that we had crossed over Pseudo Sidetrack; I subsequently led Pseudo Sidetrack using this variation several times in the mid 1960s. Not really recommended for a beginning 5.7 leader, since it's a "Dalke 5.7." It could be that Dalke and I cobbled together something of a "first ascent", but I'm not claiming one.
Apr 4, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
|I OSS this and have repeated it since. I don't find it harder than anything else on the route. Makes for a great finish.|