|Redgarden - S Buttress
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This is a distinctly "old school" Eldorado route and is sparsely protected at the crux. Climb up the ramp for approximately 35-40 meters and find a belay stance. Looking upwards and right, follow some enjoyable face climbing angling towards a break in a small roof band extending across the face. Surmounting this small roof is the crux of the climb, and protection BITD was poor (knife blade pitions!). Some smaller nuts can be placed but the direction of pull makes for "interesting" climbing; it's best to be solid at the grade and not fall here! Above the roof band, the angle relents and the standard route is soon intersected. Follow the regular route for ~ 20 meters to the top.
This uses the same start as the standard Pseudo Sidetrack.
Scramble down the East Slabs, being very cautious in wet or icy conditions!
Standard Eldorado rack, nothing very large.
E slabs descent from Upper Juniper Ledges.
|Comments on Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish
|By Rodger Raubach|
Jun 2, 2011
I actually climbed this in 1965 "by mistake" with Larry Dalke, while trying to figure out where Whistle Stop went. We climbed the first Whistle Stop pitch, but Dalke then angled right and surmounted the little roof by mistake. He yelled back down that it was "only 5.7."
I later figured out that we had crossed over Pseudo Sidetrack; I subsequently led Pseudo Sidetrack using this variation several times in the mid 1960s. Not really recommended for a beginning 5.7 leader, since it's a "Dalke 5.7." It could be that Dalke and I cobbled together something of a "first ascent", but I'm not claiming one.
Apr 4, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c
I OSS this and have repeated it since. I don't find it harder than anything else on the route. Makes for a great finish.