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Winterfest Wall
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Tanning Butter 
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Whole Lot of Drunk 

Pseudo Bullet 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave, Annette, and Ken, 1990
Page Views: 958
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 13, 2001
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Description 

The sole 5.12 in the Winterfest Wall area. Pseudo Bullet is a rare bolted FA by the consumate boulderer Dave Twinam. Turns out he can climb as well, and climb damn well to boot. Ditto Annette, his partner in this excellent route; she is also a brilliant climber whose name should always be somewhere near the tip of our climber's tongues. The climbing on Pseudo Bullet starts in the main Winterfest Wall area, several routes to the right of Rebel Yell. A thin fin-like structure on the right launches the climb. Pitch to the top of the fin and ace the first 5.12a move. A fair stretch of easy climbing on good edges takes you to a nice face and a tricky attack on the left hand arete and the second crux at 5.12a. A quick little hop around to get established on the arete leads to a beautiful square cut jug, a couple of moves, and the anchor. A word of warning: the anchor on Pseudo Bullet is badly in need of up-dating. It will suffice for raps, but if you top rope the route it would be a good idea to back clip a bolt below. Repair of this anchor, the route's only flaw, is on the docket for the spring of 2001.


Protection 

QDs only. This 80 foot route needs 8 - 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



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By Stefan Griebel
Mar 31, 2003

Is this a really hard 12a, or am I just a wuss? The 2 distinct cruxes both felt much harder than the cruxes of routes like "The Ticket" or "Plan B" in Boulder Canyon.

By Anonymous Coward
Apr 20, 2003

While the cruxes are relatively short, they are powerful very crimpy at times. I too thought this one was solid for a grade, although on a cooler or cloudier day the first crux may be easier. I thought it weighed in with Clear Creek .12a/b s as well.

By jj
Jan 23, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

I thought with a little bit of work, Pseudo Bullet fit together rather easily, especially taking to the crimps on the upper crux, made the climb significantly easier.... Is going over there right? I've never sent 5.12 and I did this in 5 tries.

By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Nov 29, 2007

FIRST ASCENT: Dave, Annette, and Ken, 1990. But it was Dave's drill that really got the job done. Pseudo Bullet and Sunset Arete (hand drilled) were the first true sport routes at Table.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Dec 7, 2008

Think this would be a hard onsight. Once you know the moves, it's 12a-ish.

By Matt Battaglia
Mar 21, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

Best done on a cool and crispy day, but that probably goes without saying... but not worth it if it is a cool and crispy day to go up here to do this route. Must do if you're at Table and climb 5.12, sweaty or not. 11c/d crux down low, 12a/b crux up high (height-dependent).