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Durrance Approach
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interesting problem below, The 
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Pseudo- Wiessner 
Rangers Are People Too 

Pseudo- Wiessner 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ray Northcutt, Harvey Carter, 8/10/54.
Page Views: 1,973
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 24, 2006
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On the 3rd Pitch
Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>


Climb up and right then back left, from the eyebolts to the base of two broken columns. Climb up (5.7) and belay on top of the higher column.
Climb a crack (5.8), straight up passing two current bushes.
Climb up to the west end of The Meadows.
Climb Meadows finish to the top.


Pro to 4".

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By John Gunnels
From: Gillette, WY
Oct 30, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

A VERY nice route with good protection. Don't forget your #4!

By Kevin Wieczorek
Sep 19, 2011

It's not unreasonable to bring a number 5 camalot for the second pitch. I brought double 4's and one 5. I walked the 5 up the wide section towards the top, placing it three or four times before leaving it. A number four will fit really deep in the offwidth/squeeze section in a couple of spots, but you might have a twenty foot or more runout if you do not have anything bigger, especially if you try to climb the face outside the crack as my second did. All in all it is a good route and very enjoyable.

By Dani Goodson
Mar 22, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Just a note...on the second pitch, make sure to follow the crack straight up from the anchors and over a slight bulge instead of going around the (seemingly easier) ramp to the right...too much rope drag and the belayer had to walk out and remove the cam...yikes. Otherwise, really cool route with great, airy stemming!

By Clay Cundy
From: Gillette, WY
Feb 17, 2013

Great climb with lots of different techniques involved, some stemming, some off-width, some traversing a little face climbing it really mixes it up.

By Mark Orsag
Feb 21, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

Really like this route-- particularly the top of the stembox first pitch and all of the the grunty but wonderful 2nd pitch. Lots of really good crimps hidden way in the back of that chimney