Pseudo- Wiessner 5.8
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Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Ray Northcutt, Harvey Carter, 8/10/54. |
| Submitted By: | Blitzo on Oct 24, 2006 |
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On the 3rd Pitch
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Devils Tower National Monument Lifts Current Prairie Falcon Climbing Route Closure MORE INFO >>>
07/01/2012: Because no falcon nesting activity has been observed, the prairie falcon nesting closures currently in effect will be removed on Sunday, July 1, thus opening these areas to normal recreational climbing activities. The areas to be reopened include on the northeast face, routes between and including “Belle Fourche Buttress” and “Maid in the Shaid” (routes #68 to #93), as well as the “North Face” rappel route.
Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please contact the monument’s Chief of Resource Management, Angela Wetz, at (307) 467-5283 ext 212 or Angela_Wetz@nps.gov. For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Climb up and right then back left, from the eyebolts to the base of two broken columns. Climb up (5.7) and belay on top of the higher column.
Climb a crack (5.8), straight up passing two current bushes.
Climb up to the west end of The Meadows.
Climb Meadows finish to the top.
Protection Pro to 4".
| Comments on Pseudo- Wiessner |
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By John Gunnels
From: Gillette, WY
Oct 30, 2006
rating: 5.8
| A VERY nice route with good protection. Don't forget your #4! |
By Kevin Wieczorek
Sep 19, 2011
| It's not unreasonable to bring a number 5 camalot for the second pitch. I brought double 4's and one 5. I walked the 5 up the wide section towards the top, placing it three or four times before leaving it. A number four will fit really deep in the offwidth/squeeze section in a couple of spots, but you might have a twenty foot or more runout if you do not have anything bigger, especially if you try to climb the face outside the crack as my second did. All in all it is a good route and very enjoyable. |
By Dani Goodson
Mar 22, 2012
rating: 5.8
| Just a note...on the second pitch, make sure to follow the crack straight up from the anchors and over a slight bulge instead of going around the (seemingly easier) ramp to the right...too much rope drag and the belayer had to walk out and remove the cam...yikes. Otherwise, really cool route with great, airy stemming! |
By Clay Cundy
From: Gillette, WY
Feb 17, 2013
| Great climb with lots of different techniques involved, some stemming, some off-width, some traversing a little face climbing it really mixes it up. |
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