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Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
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Psalm 32 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a A0

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Aid, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a A0 [details]
FA: Patrick Munn and Dominic Eisinger, summer '94
Page Views: 1,161
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Dec 14, 2007

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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    As of the printing of the Don Mellor guidebook, this route has yet to see a first free ascent. That was in 2001. Considering all of the activity on Poke-O since then, it is hard to believe this route remains constant with one point of aid.

    Then again, it is Poke-O.

    Psalm 32--the song of forgiveness--is the tremendous, plumb line right of Southern Hospitality (5.11+) that snakes its' way up the cliff using incipient cracks, thin faces and corners.

    Pitch 1:
    Follow the crack in the vertical dike up to a series of bolts and a balancy crux sequence. Belay at bolts out right on a ledge under an ominous roof. 5.11+ / 60 feet

    Pitch 2:
    Crank up past the roof on the left and follow a tight line of bolts up a technically baffling face to another bolted belay on a small ledge. 5.12a/b / 90 feet

    Pitch 3:
    Follow the obvious right-facing corner to a point where the holds and free climbing runs out. Use bolts and aid technique to reach the anchor. (Note: There is a section of about 15 feet of aid to reach the anchor.) 5.12+, A0 / 100 feet

    Location 

    About 80 feet to the right of Gamesmanship. on a low wall. Psalm 32 is the furthest crack line to the right.

    Protection 

    10 quickdraws, and small rack of stoppers/RPs plus camming units up to a gold Camalot size.


    Comments on Psalm 32 Add Comment
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    By Cowboy Roy
    From: SLC, UT
    Jul 18, 2012

    Has there still not been a free accent?
    By Jim Lawyer
    Administrator
    Jul 18, 2012

    Correct. The third pitch is one of Poke-O's great unfinished problems! It would be very exciting to see this freed (hint hint).
    By Morgan Patterson
    Administrator
    Aug 28, 2012

    Has Pete K. given it any licks yet?
    By Chris Duca
    From: Havertown, PA
    Sep 3, 2012

    Not to my knowledge, though he has worked on the project above "The Howling", I believe.