|Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
|Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.|
Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>
As of the printing of the Don Mellor guidebook, this route has yet to see a first free ascent. That was in 2001. Considering all of the activity on Poke-O since then, it is hard to believe this route remains constant with one point of aid.
Then again, it is Poke-O.
Psalm 32--the song of forgiveness--is the tremendous, plumb line right of Southern Hospitality (5.11+) that snakes its' way up the cliff using incipient cracks, thin faces and corners.
Follow the crack in the vertical dike up to a series of bolts and a balancy crux sequence. Belay at bolts out right on a ledge under an ominous roof. 5.11+ / 60 feet
Crank up past the roof on the left and follow a tight line of bolts up a technically baffling face to another bolted belay on a small ledge. 5.12a/b / 90 feet
Follow the obvious right-facing corner to a point where the holds and free climbing runs out. Use bolts and aid technique to reach the anchor. (Note: There is a section of about 15 feet of aid to reach the anchor.) 5.12+, A0 / 100 feet
About 80 feet to the right of Gamesmanship. on a low wall. Psalm 32 is the furthest crack line to the right.
10 quickdraws, and small rack of stoppers/RPs plus camming units up to a gold Camalot size.
|By Cowboy Roy|
From: SLC, UT
Jul 18, 2012
Has there still not been a free accent?
|By Jim Lawyer|
Jul 18, 2012
Correct. The third pitch is one of Poke-O's great unfinished problems! It would be very exciting to see this freed (hint hint).
|By Chris Duca|
From: Havertown, PA
Sep 3, 2012
Not to my knowledge, though he has worked on the project above "The Howling", I believe.