Prune Face Slab Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Prune face has the shortest approach of any of the...
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A 100', moderately featured slab direclty downslope from the Five Fingers area of the Gate Buttress. The five-minute approach makes it the shortest approach on the Gate. The slab has five routes primarily consisting of classic slab climbing with the occasional groove thrown in for good measure. The slab maintains a good angle over it's entire length and the moderate routes are relatively sustained, if not a bit under rated. The top of the slab has a belay setup with one chain and one large hanger. I'll work on improving this, as it tends to create excessive friction when retrieving the rope.
From the Gate Buttress boulders, follow the Schoolroom approach for about 50 yards. At the first option to fork right (north), head up slope directly towards the Five Fingers area. Do not succomb to the temptation to head right towards the dihedrals approach, but stay on a relatively straight "uphill" path. As you encounter the beginnings of the buttress formation itself, then move up and left along the base for about 100' and you'll come to the base of Prune Face.
Climbing Season For the Gate Buttress area.
Weather station 3.4 miles from here
5 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Prune Face Slab
Prune Face 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Prune Face Slab
This route ascends the right side of the slab to the mid-point, then traverses along the small roof to the left side and follows grooves to the top. The start of Prune Face is shared with Straight On For You. Climb the groove up to clip the first bolt. Surmount the steep section with thin moves, and then begin the fun. Don't slip right before the third bolt. After passing the third bolt, achieve the stance below the mid-point "roof", and shuffle left (you can place a small TCO here) to the ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
BETA PHOTO: Prune Face Close-up w/o lines
From: Small Lake, UT
May 24, 2009
Every route on this face looks deceptively easy from the bottom and turns out to be serious slabbing with hefty runouts.
Worth visiting once or when everything else at the gate is taken over by the mad crowds.