Prow V8
| 723 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Boulder |
| Consensus: | V8 [details] |
| FA: | Brian Sandona |
| Submitted By: | Remo on Dec 2, 2009 |
| |
Freaney.
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Description From bellow steep bulge, start on large ledge and gain upper section of bulge. Top-out. Super cool!
Location If at Massive Vertigo hike downhill and right for approx. 50-75 feet. Looking right(south) you should see this large feature. Or right behind the Roof Traverse Project.
Protection Pads and Spotters.
Prow.
| Prow.
| The Prow. Start... John Sweatpants.
| Hard moves, John in action.
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By sweatpants From: Broomfield, CO Dec 2, 2009
| It sounds like something that Peter described. Did you guys try this out? Looks really cool! |
By Remo From: Madison, WI Dec 2, 2009
| No, we were on our way out, looks awesome though. I think I may head up Sunday if it's not too cold. |
By Dobbe Dec 3, 2009
| Some one had moved rocks around on the landing for sure. Looks super rad! |
By Peter DeSalvo Dec 3, 2009
| This was done by Sandona back in 2004. It's around V8ish. Scary landing with one spotter. |
By Remo From: Madison, WI Dec 3, 2009
| Thanks Peter, do you know if he named it? |
By Peter DeSalvo Dec 3, 2009
| There is a problem to the right where the ferns are that is V5, but not very good. |
By Remo From: Madison, WI Dec 3, 2009
| I have to work, but maybe Sunday. |
By Peter DeSalvo Dec 3, 2009
| I would go up on Sunday and look around for some stuff. Looks like it will be cold. |
By sweatpants From: Broomfield, CO Apr 28, 2010
| scary landing for one spotter is an accurate report. They did a good job building up the landing but then there's just a drop off that kind comes into play later in the problem. This thing is super! Apparently Sandona dyno'd some how to the slopey bread loaf like feature from what Desalvo says and then goes up from there. I was able to find a more static way. I have video of my best try (last try) but am away with work, so i will upload it when i get back. my beta that you will see is from chris's last picture of me on the undercut edge and the good right hand, i bump my left hand all the way down and out to a pretty good sized undercling, then with foot still cammed in the start fall into the slopey loaf with right hand, bump to very top with right hand (that's the farthest I've linked it) I've done the other moves though from there so let me know if you have questions. This thing is really fun and 'thuggy'! |
By sweatpants From: Broomfield, CO Apr 28, 2010
| Also, we didn't try this, but from the start after you come up with ur left and right hand, instead of veering left for the prow, there is an easier line that could just go up and right to good sidepull edges to the top and be an easier moderate. |
By sweatpants From: Broomfield, CO Apr 28, 2010
| P.S.S. This thing is hard. Desalvo said only Sandona did it and gave an estimation. My estimation is it may be slightly harder. maybe Nic can do it when he comes in and will tell us whats up... I have no idea how sandona dynoed to that slopey feature...yikes |
By Paul Dieterle From: Pasadena, CA May 19, 2010
| "I was able to find a more static way." HAHAHA |
By sweatpants From: Broomfield, CO May 19, 2010
| lol. that's about as static as I get Paul. I seriously can't stop thinking about this line and am so excited to work on it again. some of the funnest movement. Paul, you would like it cause it's a little heady towrd the top. |
By Paul Campbell From: Sussex, WI Apr 28, 2011
| So "The Prow" tops out more to the left then Tunder Tighs? Tunder Tighs doesn't use that slopey rail that Freaney moves to at the end of the video correct? |
By nicros fivten Apr 28, 2011
| so. Tunder tighs starts low climbs up and exits the most obvious way using any hold necessary. The prow, to my knowledge, is a bit of a contrivance because a person climbing can reach the jug from the sloping rail. |
By sweatpants From: Broomfield, CO Apr 28, 2011
| nic is correct, TT starts lower and moves to the normal start of 'the prow'. Then after you gain 2 decent holds. TT's floats up and right on good holds and the prow goes left onto shitty holds. Contrived? probably. But you're climbing at the lake. lots of contrived things... and I think that the movement is pretty rad on the prow so its worth some effort. I would maybe start it the same as TT's if I was to try it again. |
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