Providence WI3 M2
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| Type: | Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 265 feet |
| Consensus: | WI3 M2 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Season: | Dec - Feb |
| Submitted By: | Jay Harrison on Dec 10, 2009 |
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Starting out on the winter FA of Providence
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Description P1 M2 165': Climb the corner to its end on a broad ledge. P2 WI3 100': Climb the ice slab to a short headwall and through this into the woods. P1 begins up a narrow thread of ice deeply ensconced in the corner crack. After passing a narrow, steep spot, the going gets easier as the ice fattens and a chimney offers some refuge.
Location Same as the rock route: hike around Crane's southern corner, begin descending along the SE flank, then cut up to the Slanting Cracks Wall when it becomes visible. If you can't see it, descend to the Waterfall then cut up left along the slope, walking generally south or west as you ascend the slopes below. Providence lies in a huge left-facing corner. Descent: Either 2-rope rappel or walk up and south into the Black Arches Wall col. Cross this to hook up with the BAW path or descend the col to a single-rope rappel.
Protection Cams, Tricams, and screws. Note that the first pitch is a natural funnel for anything falling from above, and screws on the 2nd pitch will melt out if it is sunny (cover them with snow!).
Heading up the first pitch.
| Scott tops out of the first pitch on a foggy day.
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