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Providence

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Ancient Sea Friends 
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Next Time, Send a Card 
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Providence 


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Location: 38.8367, -92.4058 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,926
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: James Dolph on Nov 8, 2008
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Description 

Just a handful of climbs all rated 5.9 and up. Most climbs can be top-roped with long runners but there are a few bolted routes. Classic crack climb needing large cams as pro.


Getting There 

From Columbia: drive south of Columbia on Providence about 5 miles until you come to a river access sign to Providence landing. Follow the access signs to the parking lot. Head east from the parking lot on the KATY trail. Less than half a mile to the bluffs. Scramble up a steep trail to the base of the bluffs.


10 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',4],['5.11',3],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Providence:
Regurgitated Bird   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 50'   
Ancient Sea Friends   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Both Get Hard On Top   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Slimestone Cowboy   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Browse More Classics in Providence

Featured Route For Providence
Notice bulge ramp at the bottom, below the dark pocket. The roof section above the GOLD NUGGET features the other two main pocket features on this route.

Gold Nugget 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b  MO : Providence
GOLD NUGGET 12 c/d - Step up sloped bulge to first bolt, then stem bulge dihedral to softball sized pocket. The lower vertical face (10a) requires balance then gives way to a horizontal band of gold colored rock. Grab the large "Gold Nugget" then with a heel hook behind nugget, reach up to obvious pockets to clip the fifth bolt and prepare for the crux. A solid fist jam in the big pocket helps me reach up from the pockets. The crux reaches of this gem (12c/d)are dynamic, for me, and requi...[more]   Browse More Classics in MO

Comments on Providence Add Comment
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By James Dolph
From: Columbia, MO
Dec 4, 2011

i THINK you're referring to the line i sent back in 2008 called "Iron Clad 5.10a" (due to it's distinctive large iron deposit 1/2 way up the wall), re-named after it was bolted by Kevin Capps in 2010 "regurgitated bird 5.10c

By Jon B
From: Englewood, CO
Dec 14, 2011

That big piece of iron/rock isn't there anymore. Not sure who took it out but it had to take some muscle!

By marcus floyd
From: columbia, mo
Feb 17, 2013

ok.No more than 9 up to first roof at the top of main dihedral. After which... the route turns into a beast...nothing like that which beginners know. Turn the roof and try to stagger into the upper dihedral or take the undercling to a small layback flake egde then reach up with the left to the main upper dihedral hold. With the left hand, press into the roof as you bring the right hand into a major undercling. thismajor undercling convertes to a left hand moving left, to better pinches, as the left foot walksupthe left lower face....At some ponint, you have to say fuc... and move your right hand to the last few hand holds. Topout using the sharp right edge for the right hand so you can clip with the left.