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The Streambed Boulders
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E-Z Cheese 
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Provia 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 646
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Feb 11, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Mike G working into the undercling.

Description 

While most people simply walk past this slightly overhanging arete, it deserves more love than it gets. The movement is fun, the foot beta has a techy nature to it, and there are numerous ways to unlock the sequence. Sit start with your right hand pinching the arete with the help of a good thumbcatch. For your left hand you can either use the bad sloper or the small razor blade. Pull off the ground and stand up into the left hand undercling. Slap up the arete, work your feet, and then choose your adventure...

Method 1 - Dyno to a crimp a few inches below the lip and then topout on jugs.

Method 2 - Stick a small sloper with your left hand and bump your right up to the good rail. Topout on jugs.

Method 3 - Stay tight and move your left hand into a tiny sidepull, then bump your right to the good rail. Topout on jugs.

Maybe it's the rock sticking out of the ground that annoys people. It's actually not in the way.


Location 

On the other side of the tree from the problem EZ Cheese. There is usually chalk on the starting sloper/crimp.


Protection 

Pads



Photos of Provia Slideshow Add Photo
Christian Prellwitz on Provia
Christian Prellwitz on Provia
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By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Nov 12, 2011

Did this route yesterday and the small undercling pinch/crimp in the middle is seriously threatening to snap off. I would say climb this and that hold tenderly. On a side note if that hold does break this climb will get much harder.

By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Nov 14, 2011

Good thing there are at least 2 other ways to climb this problem without using that hold that aren't any more difficult - if it does snap off, at least people will revert back to the beta that doesn't involve pinching a razor blade.

By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jul 4, 2012
rating: V6 7A

Footage of this problem starts at 2:12

By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Sep 22, 2012
rating: V6 7A

Agree with Bryce. This problems is actually quite good, with enjoyable movement no matter which way you do it (I've climbed them all).

By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
Oct 25, 2012

I was over by EZ cheese two days ago and was re-scoping provia out when I noticed the pinch/crimp that Mike mentioned below has finally ripped off and is no more - not that I had any interest in grabbing that hold ever but I know a few people will need to find new beta to climb this problem again.

By Noah Doherty
From: Nashua, NH
Oct 28, 2012

I'm not sure if I sent this. I rocked over on the foot and matched on the arete, moving to the crimp and then another and then the topout jug.

By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 28, 2012
rating: V6 7A

I would say that if you stayed more or less to the left of the arete, then you probably did. If you moved right into the corner, then that is probably a bit easier. I've always thought that this line felt pretty natural and uncontrived, though I suppose I could see someone pulling up into the corner. If that doesn't answer your question, you might have to ask Bryce, the resident guru, what is 'allowed'. :)