Protege 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Magill |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | richard magill on Jan 1, 2001 |
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BETA PHOTO: Protege and Poacer, as seen from the Alcove.
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Description Thin crimping and technical foot work up a dead vertical wall. This route is safe, but the insecure moves and stances give it a spooky feel.The hardest climbing is in the first 35 feet, after which the climbing drops into the 10+ to 11- range. Fun all the way to the anchors. To find Protege, look at the north-facing wall across from the red tower. The wall breaks into two distinct panels. The left panel is full of cracks and offers many trad climbs, as well as a couple of sport routes. The right panel is very compact and has four sport routes. Protege is the leftmost of these four routes.
Protection 14 bolts.
By desbien From: seattle,wa Nov 4, 2007 rating: 5.11d
| Great route. 11d. |
By DJ RYNO From: chatfield lake ,co Sep 18, 2009 rating: 5.11d
| Sickness, do it!!!! |
By Tzilla Rapdrilla Jul 25, 2011
| Anchor upgraded 2011 courtesy of the ASCA, please show them your support. |
By Kevin Neilson From: Boulder Jul 30, 2011
| Super route. It felt a little easier than a typical Devil's Head 11d. This wall only gets sun at the end of the day. |
By slim Jul 3, 2012 rating: 5.11c
| Great climbing on this one. A bit more sustained through the first half compared to the 3 routes to the right. The description of the protection seemed accurate to me - it felt kind of committing, despite being fairly well bolted. Maybe due having a bit of a pump during the last part of the crux, with a bit of a run (albeit fairly easy) to the next bolt. |
By Ernie Moskovics Sep 15, 2012
| Head Crew notes: Boomer (aka Rich Magill) was infamous for wandering off (with Burwick), sending a bunch of routes, then showing up after we were cooked from cleaning, drilling, and working moves, to grab the FA. This one, and "The Poacher" next door, are a tribute to his Zook Mastery. Hail Boomer! |
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