Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Pros and Cons of gear slings
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 3 of 3.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Apr 29, 2012
Cham '11
sling on alpine mixed
sling on alpine mixed
Dane
Joined Jun 18, 2008
580 points
Apr 29, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
rgold wrote:
Harness racking works for sport climbs and many types of short trad routes. It is preferable for overhanging routes where the sling hangs way behind the climber (although the backward-hanging sling is easily corrected by clipping it to a harness loop), but on the other hand is terrible for any kind of crack climbing requiring the body or some part of it to be in the crack. Harness racking also impedes hip scums in corners, and even if the scum works, it can be very hard to get at gear that is pinned against a wall.

Just goes to show - to each his own. I am a crack climber and I rack on my harness for everything. I climb Alpine with a 70M rope... and I use it. A "short pitch" is anything less than 150'.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,510 points
Apr 29, 2012
Colonel Mustard
It's mostly a matter of preference. There. I said it. Colonel Mustard
Joined Sep 13, 2005
1,367 points
Apr 29, 2012
I really like using a sling (really 1" runner) when I'm doing easy stuff with only a little bit of gear. I use a CAMP Alp 95 thong, er, harness, and it's gear-loop free. The gear stays on the sling and can go in or out of the pack with the rope, while the harness stays on and is light enough to never get in the way, even when running or skiing.

If I have more than a set of nuts, a couple screws, and a few slings - I want a real harness and usually leave the sling behind.
Auto-X Fil
From NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
Joined Aug 1, 2010
46 points
Administrator
Apr 30, 2012
Jon Moen wrote:
Never have dropped a piece this way, in 10 years of trad climbing.

Well many, many people have, and I am sure harness racking has been a big contributing factor in many cases. Think about it, if you have to hand over ten pieces of gear each pitch on a ten pitch route, that's 100 pieces you have to hand over for the whole climb. If it was on a rack, you would only have ten pieces of "gear" to handover. So in my example, a climber may have a 10x higher chance of dropping something if he used his harness to rack gear on versus a sling.
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
665 points
Apr 30, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
20 kN wrote:
So in my example, a climber may have a 10x higher chance of dropping something if he used his harness to rack gear on versus a sling.

That reminds me of the time an entire sling worth of gear went flying past me on Moonlight Buttress. They guys wanted to jumar our ropes for the next 5 pitches... "We really don't want to retreat at this point."
"That's cool, I understand - Willie and I weren't psyched about hauling our bag the rest of the way up."
And a deal was struck - We took time to take extra lines up and fix them, they hauled for us.
Point being - you can still drop stuff. If I was in the mode of picking a side and then making whatever arguments I could come up with to support it I'd say that with a sling you drop THE WHOLE rack.
I've dropped gear once in 25+ years, BTW, so it actually does not figure into my equation at all.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,510 points
May 7, 2012
Kilroy
buy a Misty Caddy and be done with this topic. 6 gear loops. plenty of room for a ton of shit. Kilroywashere!
From Harrisonburg, Virginia
Joined Oct 27, 2009
287 points
May 7, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks
I alwas use a gear sling for trad routes (except for at the creek). It is easier to stay organized, to whip the gear around to grab with left or right hand, to dangle below for the ow sections. Plus I don't like a lot of weight on my harness. Very uncomfortable. Princess Mia
From Vail
Joined May 22, 2006
422 points
Oct 7, 2012
Me
gear on harness. draws on sling. Benjaminadk
From Lake George, NY
Joined Apr 8, 2012
1,088 points
Oct 7, 2012
me
I'm with the Colonel! All this other talk is blah blah blah. slk
From Reno, NV
Joined Jan 26, 2011
167 points
Oct 7, 2012
me in mid summer on the column direct
Kilroywashere! wrote:
buy a Misty Caddy and be done with this topic. 6 gear loops. plenty of room for a ton of shit.


+1

I routinely rack a double set of cams and nuts, tricams, free 'biners, trad draws, anchor gear, and personal gear on my MM Caddy with no trouble. I have also never dropped a piece of gear while changing over or placing. It sounds like some people need some soap for their butter fingers~
ben schuldt
From Morris, MN
Joined Oct 16, 2008
41 points
Administrator
Oct 7, 2012
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lich...
Unless I am using a light rack, I go ahead and use my big wall chest harness for racking. I like the way I can have it sorted and not all clumped tightly together, it keeps the gear up away from my knees and it is a lot more comfortable. Shoulder slings make me feel like I am going to strangle myself and either hang in front of you on low angles, getting in the way, or the gear is out of sight and reach on steep stuff M Sprague
From New England
Joined Nov 9, 2006
5,499 points
Oct 7, 2012
the fridge leavenworth
Personally I like to rack on my harness. It keeps your center of gravity lower, and I think its easier to find the piece I want. With a sling I find it gets caught on all sorts of things and I cant see my feet when Im using one. Hmann2
Joined Mar 10, 2011
33 points
Oct 8, 2012
Harness racking:

Never directly caused a death.

Gear sling:

Several deaths directly attributable to their use.


I really don't need any other reason to rack on my harness.
EvanH
From Boone, NC
Joined Sep 16, 2010
11 points
Oct 9, 2012
EvanH wrote:
Gear sling: Several deaths directly attributable to their use.


Actually, shockingly, true. There are two that I know of in the last ~10 years, one in Eldo and another on Charlotte Dome. Some frightening freak accidents have happened.
JCM
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 9, 2008
53 points
Oct 9, 2012
Middle
Hung to death by the sling. Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Joined Jul 23, 2010
130 points
Oct 10, 2012
Which way again?
Apparently, the tone of my post led to its removal.

Allow me to rephrase:

"Pardon me, kind sirs of the greatest sport known to man, soon to take its rightful place at the head of the Olympics roster. Wouldst thou explainest when, how, and why the many deaths related to racking on a gear sling occurred, citing sources for scientific purposes?"

That better?

Your earnest Colleague,

The Earl of Sarcasm
Cunning Linguist
Joined Feb 15, 2007
2,478 points
Oct 10, 2012
Middle
The answer is still hanging death. Seems over blown but still... Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Joined Jul 23, 2010
130 points
Oct 10, 2012
Which way again?
Hard to believe. Names, dates, references?

I still think untied shoelaces may be the bigger hazard...
Cunning Linguist
Joined Feb 15, 2007
2,478 points
Oct 10, 2012
...
"Hard to believe. Names, dates, references?"


I too am CURIOUS as hell about that one. Don't recall ever hearing about a climber getting hung by a gear sling (Not saying it didn't happen).
Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,382 points
Administrator
Oct 10, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
about 10 years ago ( i think his name was angus) fell on a route on redgarden wall at eldo. maybe anthill direct? anyway, a hex got caught up in a crack and he unfortunately got hung up in the gear sling and passed away. it was an unfortunate freak occurence.

people have dropped the rack on a sling. people have dumped a bunch of gear when their harness gear loops broke. etc etc etc.

some say you can't climb a roof with a gear sling, the segmented metolius gear sling actually works great for roofs.

when i started climbing with a gear sling i hated it, but now i prefer it over racking on my harness. my shoulders are in pretty bad shape, so reaching behind me to get gear doesn't feel so great. i also like being able to hand over (or receive) the rack in one motion on longer routes. my wife hates racking on a sling, says she isn't strong enough to carry the weight on her shoulders.

to each their own i guess.
slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,043 points
Oct 10, 2012
I remember this one from 2009 but not any others: Summit Post Accident Report

Strange set of circumstances, but certainly possible.
Tipton
Joined Jun 22, 2010
23 points
Oct 10, 2012
Cold day at Smug's
summitpost.org/account-of-obel...

Here is a firsthand account of a death believed to be caused by a gearsling.

But seriously, if this is what you're worried about, I suggest you take up a different sport. This 1 in a billion type accident is simply not a good reason to not use a sling.
csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
209 points
Oct 10, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
I have personally had to get a partner off a route where he took a fall and got an over-the-shoulder sling caught on a tree and was being strangled. Yes, left there, he would have died. As it was, we got him to a hospital for some stitches and treatment of a concussion. It was ~1992 and on the climb Horny Bitch in the Red River Gorge. Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,510 points
Oct 10, 2012
...
Someone should invent some sort of QUICK RELEASE that WON'T release too quickly unless called for... Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,382 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 3 of 3.  <<First   <Prev   1  2  3
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!