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The Crag Ranch
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Property Boundary 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tod Anderson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 198
Submitted By: Tod Anderson on May 16, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: As seen from Digital Tower.
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Description 

This is the furthest left route on the Crag Ranch, starting from the Sun Deck Ledge. A short powerful route leads through overhangs to an anchor at the end of "the good stone", where the rock changes to that found more frequently throughout the South Platte.

This is the first route in the new Devil's Head Guidebook that is now available in about a dozen shops and gyms in Colorado Springs and Denver.


Protection 

6 bolts + anchors.



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By slim
Administrator
Jun 24, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

A really weird route. It would have been better to arrange it such that the protection followed the natural climbing (11a or so). The bolts are way, way out to the right, so you end up climbing up to the left, then trying to climb back to the right to clip, etc. The last bolt is really hard to clip. There are several spots on the route where the location of the bolts versus natural climbing results in the rope running over sharp edges, etc.

Also, several of the bolts are located such that the biners get mangled over edges/knobs/etc., and it tries to open the gates. I used a couple granny draws to mitigate this.

The anchors are way to the right, so it isn't really possible to lower and retrieve draws. You have to TR it. I found the rope versus edge problems even worse on TR.

The 2 12a's to the right are fun, but I would skip this one. I would give this one a bomb, but if it was retro'd, it could be a good route.