|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Tod Anderson on May 16, 2004|
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Jun 24, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
A really weird route. It would have been better to arrange it such that the protection followed the natural climbing (11a or so). The bolts are way, way out to the right, so you end up climbing up to the left, then trying to climb back to the right to clip, etc. The last bolt is really hard to clip. There are several spots on the route where the location of the bolts versus natural climbing results in the rope running over sharp edges, etc.
Also, several of the bolts are located such that the biners get mangled over edges/knobs/etc., and it tries to open the gates. I used a couple granny draws to mitigate this.
The anchors are way to the right, so it isn't really possible to lower and retrieve draws. You have to TR it. I found the rope versus edge problems even worse on TR.
The 2 12a's to the right are fun, but I would skip this one. I would give this one a bomb, but if it was retro'd, it could be a good route.