Promises 5.12d
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Good page?   |
| Type: | Sport, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12d [details] |
| FA: | Lee Hansche 1/28/13 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Jan 28, 2013 |
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BETA PHOTO: Here you go... climb it... it's fun :)
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Description Listed as an open project in the latest guide book. There has been a single bolt on the bulge for years. Every time I saw it I just felt like it needed to be finished. I finally got around to adding a few more bolts and climbing the surprisingly enjoyable route.
Climb up on to the slab clipping the first bolt then scampering up another little bit to a stance where it steepens to vertical. Clip the high 2nd bolt (I might add one more at some point so this isn't run out... what do you think?). Climb around to the right and back left to gain a solid knee bar. To this point it's about 5.9ish. Powerful moves tackle the steep bulge above. Long arms and a few tricks will help make this section reasonable.
The crux for me is dyno move at the lip of the bulge. spring from a couple of crimps and bad feet out right to your choice of a few good holds. You can make the last clip from here easily. Just when you think it is over you need to wrestle a few slopers to gain the chains. Might be other options up here, time will tell.
I found the moves to be really fun. My only comment on that is that it will favor tall climbers in a couple of spots.
Location Just left of the obvious overhanging arete of Blues for Mogli. Look for a slab leading to a very steep bulge.
Protection 6 bolts to Anchor.
If your Belayer isn't anchored you might want to back clean the first bolt to avoid having them get pulled in to a sharp edge.
this shows the bulge from a better angle
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 28, 2013
| As usual i am not psyched to have to put a grade on this one... it's 5.12c or 12d for me, a small climber might find it more like 13a... |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jan 28, 2013
| Nice, Lee! Good to see that one cleaned up. |
By Adam Conroy
From: Cambridge, MA
Jan 28, 2013
| Probably a little tough for me but I'm excited to get some touches on this at least. :) I like the description a lot. |
By chinos
Jan 29, 2013
| thanks for the addition Lee! nice work |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 29, 2013
| thanks guys :) |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 1, 2013
| It has been brought to my attention that other people had put work in to this line recently and i just wanted to set the record straight that i was under the impression that it was an open project.i don't climb for the "glory" of a first ascent but rather to give back to the climbing community that has given so much to me.
I first scrubbed off the upper section a few years ago and it had stayed in the back of my mind since then. I did notice a rope on it this past fall and i saw some chalk on some of the holds. I noticed no other difference to the route. Perhaps bad observation skills on my part because keith B had installed a new anchor (later i discovered that Dave Quinn had put in some work as well). I went out about 2 weeks ago and bolted the route and came back as soon as i could to climb the route, excited to open a climb that had sat unfinished for well over a decade. The wind was taken out of my sails slightly when i found out that i had inadvertently stepped on some toes, toes that i respect greatly. I have been in touch with Keith and he and i have found common ground on the issue. My sincere apologies to Dave if my ascent of the route was offensive in any way. I will always respect anyone's project if i know they are invested in it.
As a side note: i would be happy to share the credit for the route as we all put in hard work. |
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Feb 1, 2013
| Lee, you're a model of sensibility! if the climbing community had more people with your level of psych and understanding, and lack of ego, we would have far fewer "girl talk" like fiascos. Props, and thanks, to all of you who've put up awesome routes in Rumney. |
By chinos
Feb 11, 2013
| well put E!
Lee you put the bolts in and sent, nobody owns the rock, and everyone should share the stoke for another new line at rumney! keep em' coming! |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 11, 2013
| thank you guys for your kind words and congratulations!
just so it is clear, my above comments were only to give respect where respect was due... everyone was cool about the situation... |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 30, 2013
| I did it again today but with feeling in my fingers and toes this time... Jay Knower proved what i suspected, it is a bit harder if you are under 6 feet tall... the dyno is one of the coolest moves around :) |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 8, 2013
| I added 1 bolt today between the first and second bolts... I'm much happier with it now... try it if you like dynos, its a FUN one! :) |
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