Project X 5.12
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.12a/b [details] |
| FA: | Anderson, Hanson, Ziggy, 1/1990 |
| Submitted By: | Richard M. Wright on Jan 9, 2002 |
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Project X runs up the middle of this wall just right of the grey streak. Climbing up to the final roof is reasonable 5.11 climbing on thin cobbles and a few thin edges. The roof, at one point, contained a small, crimper cobble that has been pulled off. My recent attempt here ended in frustration. On top rope, it was possible to contrive a ridiculously long reach from an almost horizontal body position, to pick up a thin blackish inclusion, and still follow the existing line. Not really workable on an honest lead (for me anyway). In putzing around below the roof, it seemed as though one could redirect the route to the left making a logical, traversing finish. It may be worth relocating the anchor for this purpose (??).
Protection Half a dozen draws and a rope.
By bb Jan 23, 2004 rating: 5.11d
| Is this really suppose to be 5.12 climbing? The cobble that was pulled out left a sick dish which was a blast if you got it like a side/pull gaston, but the crux was not sustained at all.... I feel a 5.12 climb should have more than 1 or 2 tough moves. In Rock Climbing Colorado though, it says it goes at 5.12b (was that before the cobble gave?). If so, has anyone climbed this route without that existing cobble? Anyone? Feel free to disagree. |
By Chris Cavallaro Oct 5, 2005 rating: 5.12b
| Great route! The rest before the crux definitely makes the redpoint easier, but this is still a tough route. I move right under the roof and go to the slopey pocket to pull over the roof. Fun stuff! |
By Kegan Minock From: colorado springs May 20, 2010
| Yeah, this thing is ridiculous. I was workin' it for the first time today and got the clip right after the roof, but after hitting the slopy pocket I'm stuck! But overall, it's a fun route. |
By Kegan Minock From: colorado springs Jun 24, 2011
| Something in between the 5th and 6th bolt must have broken off. There's no way this is a 12a/b. I've climbed 5.13 and can boulder V9/10, and I do not see how pulling past the slopey pocket is possible. |
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