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 ADVANCED
The 5.10 Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Hooters Arete S 
Mr. Owl S 
Open Project (Endless Owl's) S 
Project Owl (open project) S 
Wize Owl S 
Woodland Surfer S 

Project Owl (open project) 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: unfinished-cleaned and bolted by Ward Smith
Page Views: 201
Submitted By: M Sprague on Sep 18, 2012

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Description 

Like Mr. Owl but longer, better and harder and topped off by a roof crack. When completed this will be a super classic of New England - super sustained, very technical steep face climbing. Fully bolted and ready to go!

It is really a shame other strong climbers from the region haven't come and tried this yet. I did a couple times and got my ass kicked. There was a section where I couldn't even figure out the holds, though I saw Paula King do it so I know they are there. Given a grade of 13 b/c in the guide, it is probably at least a letter grade harder.


Location 

midway between Hooters Arete and the giant flake plastered in the middle of the wall. This starts at the same spot as the Endless Owls project, but angles left and then up the tallest line of bolts to an anchor above the roof with the crack at the top.


Protection 

15 bolt and anchors. 70 m rope needed for TR! Watch the ends. It may be possible to lead it with a 60m if you lower off and pendulum to the mid anchor on the route to the left and rap from there.



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