This secluded area hosts a selection of great climbs and would be a very popular crag anywhere, but located deep in the backwoods of Arkansas, it is highly likely you will have this very beautiful climbing area all to yourself. Although this area was supposedly found by two other climbers before myself, we found no evidence of previous climbing activity while developing the routes here. The climbing is on very good rock and entails powerful cruxes between monster jugs on an unbroken 45 degree wall. The prohibition wall is south facing and climbing is enjoyable year-round as the sun graces the face only in the winter. The All American wall is east facing and hosts high quality warm-ups ranging from 5.8 to 5.12 with the majority being 5.10 and 5.11. There is a waterfall with a nice swimming hole at the head of the 'horseshoe-canyon,' but beware there have been big snakes seen here on many occasions. A convenient camp site is located .2mi before the trail head (at a faint 'Y' in the trail). Please do not use the left trail from the campsite as it leads to private property. Most, if not all, anchors are fixed, as well as many of the routes on the Prohibition wall. PLEASE USE YOUR BEST JUDGEMENT WHEN CLIPPING FIXED GEAR.
From Dickey Junction (Lat, Long: 35.8379, -92.9538) drive 2.8 miles NE on Richland Road (towards Stack Rock) and turn right onto a well established trail-road. High clearance is not mandatory, but there are a couple deep puddles soon after turning on this trail. Go .9 miles to the two car parking area on your left & you will see the climber's trail perpendicular to the pullout. Plenty of additional parking is found .1 mile further. The approach trail is probably around 3/4 of a mile, and has sections that are quite steep. Just before you reach the beautiful creek crossing a rock stack on your right indicates the path to the the Mercenary Wall. A minute or so after crossing the creek you will come to a split in the trail: the right fork takes you to the shorter approach, a down-climbable chimney, the left fork is dog friendly and more popular.
23 Total Routes
Featured Route For Prohibition
Absolutely Not 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c AR : Prohibition : Prohibition Wall
Climb the phenomenal route Absolute through both cruxes, then climb right to find the crux of this route -- right at the top. This was the first sport route bolted on the wall. The upper crux is the real deal and although two different beta sequencs have worked they both seem to be 5.13b. Due to the anchor placement, it is hard to clip one of the chains on redpoint. If anyone wants to move the hard to clip bolt, feel free....[more] Browse More Classics in AR
Latest Regional Forum Messages
From Midwest Go to Forum | What's New | Post New Topic