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Providence
Routes Sorted
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Ancient Sea Friends 
Both Get Hard On Top 
Fist of Gold 
Gold Nugget 
Next Time, Send a Card 
Nice Stems 
Prohibition 
Providence Crack 
Regurgitated Bird 
Slimestone Cowboy 
Unsorted Routes:

Prohibition 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA:  Jim Karpowicz
Page Views: 251
Submitted By: James Dolph on Nov 8, 2008
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Description 

This climb is the bolted climb left of ProvidenceCrack,? and was put up by the route artist, Jim Karpowicz. Climb up past two bolts to a crack in a right-facing dihedral. Protect the crack, then go right back onto the face to an undercling and a hard clip from the undercling. After getting the clip, pull a well-protected crux, then run it out to the top. The bottom offers some attention-getting moves, and the protection in the dihedral is probably good, but there is a good chance it would get tested if the leader is not comfortable at 5.10.


Location 

first bolted route left of providence crack


Protection 

Gear: despite 3 bolts, this route can take a variety of gear. i (btw) advise that you take mid-large wires for the dihedral, and a couple of cams in the thin-hands to wide-hands range for the shelf.



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By marcus floyd
From: columbia, mo
Dec 19, 2011

CONDITION REPORT 

Please edit the route. Sort this route, as it is located on the cliff, relative to other sorted routes for Providence crack is a reference point in route locations and descriptions.

Thanks in advance Jay.

By marcus floyd
From: columbia, mo
Dec 19, 2011

I advise everyone to beware of the distance betweent the first and second bolt relative to the ground potential. I would be happy to place a second safety bolt!

I have climbed this great mixed route noumerous times, since it was bolted, and have wondered everytime "what in the **** am I doing?"

Despite this potential ground possibility, I rate this route as a classic.