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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA:  Jim Karpowicz
Page Views: 414
Submitted By: James Dolph on Nov 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Moon shaped, trad protected, layback crack


This climb is the bolted climb left of ProvidenceCrack,? and was put up by the route artist, Jim Karpowicz. Climb up past two bolts to a crack in a right-facing dihedral. Protect the crack, then go right back onto the face to an undercling and a hard clip from the undercling. After getting the clip, pull a well-protected crux, then run it out to the top. The bottom offers some attention-getting moves, and the protection in the dihedral is probably good, but there is a good chance it would get tested if the leader is not comfortable at 5.10.


first bolted route left of providence crack


Gear: despite 3 bolts, this route can take a variety of gear. i (btw) advise that you take mid-large wires for the dihedral, and a couple of cams in the thin-hands to wide-hands range for the shelf.

Photos of Prohibition Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Keep your wits between  the first few bolts.
BETA PHOTO: Keep your wits between the first few bolts.

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By marcus floyd
From: columbia, mo
Dec 19, 2011

Please edit the route. Sort this route, as it is located on the cliff, relative to other sorted routes for Providence crack is a reference point in route locations and descriptions.

Thanks in advance Jay.
By marcus floyd
From: columbia, mo
Dec 19, 2011

I advise everyone to beware of the distance betweent the first and second bolt relative to the ground potential. I would be happy to place a second safety bolt!

I have climbed this great mixed route noumerous times, since it was bolted, and have wondered everytime "what in the **** am I doing?"

Despite this potential ground possibility, I rate this route as a classic.

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