Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Providence
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ancient Sea Friends S 
Both Get Hard On Top S 
Fist of Gold S 
Gold Nugget S 
Next Time, Send a Card S 
Nice Stems TR 
Prohibition T,S 
Providence Crack T 
Regurgitated Bird S 
Slimestone Cowboy S 
Unsorted Routes:

Prohibition 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA:  Jim Karpowicz
Page Views: 272
Submitted By: James Dolph on Nov 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This climb is the bolted climb left of ProvidenceCrack,? and was put up by the route artist, Jim Karpowicz. Climb up past two bolts to a crack in a right-facing dihedral. Protect the crack, then go right back onto the face to an undercling and a hard clip from the undercling. After getting the clip, pull a well-protected crux, then run it out to the top. The bottom offers some attention-getting moves, and the protection in the dihedral is probably good, but there is a good chance it would get tested if the leader is not comfortable at 5.10.

Location 

first bolted route left of providence crack

Protection 

Gear: despite 3 bolts, this route can take a variety of gear. i (btw) advise that you take mid-large wires for the dihedral, and a couple of cams in the thin-hands to wide-hands range for the shelf.


Comments on Prohibition Add Comment
Show which comments
By marcus floyd
From: columbia, mo
Dec 19, 2011

CONDITION REPORT 
Please edit the route. Sort this route, as it is located on the cliff, relative to other sorted routes for Providence crack is a reference point in route locations and descriptions.

Thanks in advance Jay.
By marcus floyd
From: columbia, mo
Dec 19, 2011

I advise everyone to beware of the distance betweent the first and second bolt relative to the ground potential. I would be happy to place a second safety bolt!

I have climbed this great mixed route noumerous times, since it was bolted, and have wondered everytime "what in the **** am I doing?"

Despite this potential ground possibility, I rate this route as a classic.