Prohibition 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Jim Karpowicz |
| Submitted By: | James Dolph on Nov 8, 2008 |
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Description This climb is the bolted climb left of ProvidenceCrack,? and was put up by the route artist, Jim Karpowicz. Climb up past two bolts to a crack in a right-facing dihedral. Protect the crack, then go right back onto the face to an undercling and a hard clip from the undercling. After getting the clip, pull a well-protected crux, then run it out to the top. The bottom offers some attention-getting moves, and the protection in the dihedral is probably good, but there is a good chance it would get tested if the leader is not comfortable at 5.10.
Location first bolted route left of providence crack
Protection Gear: despite 3 bolts, this route can take a variety of gear. i (btw) advise that you take mid-large wires for the dihedral, and a couple of cams in the thin-hands to wide-hands range for the shelf.
By marcus floyd
From: columbia, mo
Dec 19, 2011
| I advise everyone to beware of the distance betweent the first and second bolt relative to the ground potential. I would be happy to place a second safety bolt!
I have climbed this great mixed route noumerous times, since it was bolted, and have wondered everytime "what in the **** am I doing?"
Despite this potential ground possibility, I rate this route as a classic. |
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