Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Sundance Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adrenaline 
Banana Peels 
Betwixt'em 
Bonzo 
Bushes 
Cajun Capers 
Chain of Command 
Covert Action 
Curve Grande 
English Opening 
Eumenides 
Firebird 
Grapevine 
Great Roof Bypass 
Guillotine, The 
Hemp Necktie 
Hurley-Neri 
Idiot Wind 
Jet Stream 
Kor's Flake 
Last Gasp 
Laura Scudders 
Mainliner 
Mr President 
Nose, The 
Precipitation 
Progression 
Redman 
Sidetrack 
Slim Pickens 
Turnkorner 
Turnkorner Direct 
Under the Big Top 
Under The Sundress 
Upside Down Race Car Kitty 
Whiteman 

Progression 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Doug Snively and Cito Kilpatrick, 1980
Page Views: 1,623
Submitted By: George Bell on Aug 11, 2001
Good Page? 1 person likes this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Howard just above the crux of the route on pitch 2...
Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Past the base of Grapevine (west) is an immense left facing arch. The first pitch of Eumenides climbs the left-most dihedral of this arch. The arch itself is composed of about 4-5 left-facing dihedrals, Progression climbs the second one from the right. This dihedral may also be identified by a beautiful white corner (only about 30' high) at the start of the second pitch (the crux).

Scramble up to the base of the dihedral.

P1: climb the interesting crack as it shoots up through featured green rock (lichens). This is a fun and well protected 5.8 pitch. The pitch ends at a spectacular stance at the base of the white corner.

P2: Lieback up the white corner to a flared hand jam, solve the crux and crank over a strange looking black flake. Although you can place a stopper every 2' in the white dihedral, the placements are flared and tricky and will pump you out. Continue on up a bombay chimney (5.8, 3.5" piece useful) with wild stemming moves to belay on a huge ledge.

At this point you are about 30' above the top of the second pitch of Grapevine, and you can continue on Grapevine. Or continue via ... [description supplied by Scott Kimball].

Pitch #3 climbs a tiny, LF dihedral with a roof, on sharp face holds but thin protection (5.9). The Gillett guide mentions mildly unprotected faceclimbing above this roof (i.e. fall on ledge), a safer alternative is 20ft. right, tagging onto Grapevine, then belay on the far left edge to a fine, sitdown ledge.

Pitch #4 Left to the brink and stem up a left-facing dihedral that forks after 40ft. Left is 5.10 and flaky looking; Right is nice, sustained and 5.9 and finishes atop the ledge system common for routes in this area.

Pitch #5 Easy slabs.


Protection 

Standard rack to 3.5".



Photos of Progression Slideshow Add Photo
On the 5.10a variation of pitch 4.
On the 5.10a variation of pitch 4.
Comments on Progression Add Comment
Show which comments
By S. Kimball
Jul 10, 2003

Indeed this 3 Star route does progress.

Pitch #3 climbs a tiny, LF dihedral with a roof, on sharp face holds but thin protection (5.9). The Gillett guide mentions mildly unprotected faceclimbing above this roof (i.e. fall on ledge), a safer alternative is 20ft. right, tagging onto Grapevine, then belay on the far left edge ot a fine, sitdown ledge.

Pitch #4 Left to the brink and stem up a Lf dihedral that forks after 40ft. Left is 5.10 and flaky looking; Right is nice, sustained and 5.9 and finishes atop the ledge system common for routes in this area.

Pitch #5 Easy slabs.

By Luke Clarke
From: Golden
May 29, 2006

Add this to your 'must do' list for Sundance. That includes the third and fourth pitches. Climb them. Climb Grapevine on another day, if you haven't already.
If you like to lieback -- and who doesn't -- you'll like this. Sew up the crux with your small wireds and dig into some of Lumpy's best white granite with a crux 150 feet off the floor.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Sep 28, 2008

The largest piece that you need for the crux pitch is a #3 Camalot. I brought a #4 Friend and didn't place it on the climb. The bombay chimney above the crux is fun and secure. It is also well protected with hexs and/or medium cams.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 13, 2009

Awesome route! Green then red C3 off the ledge in the crux dihedral were solid first two pieces.

Did the whole route in 4 pitches pretty easily with a 60. Think it would have been better to trend hard right on the last pitch instead of heading straight up as we had to downclimb some grassy slot to get back right for the walk-off anyhow.

CL

By Eric and Lucie
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 16, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Did this route today again and REALLY enjoyed it.

I very highly recommend going left on P4: the obvious LF corner is around 5.9 with really fun moves and great pro. Getting over the little roof at the end of the corner is the first crux (~10a and well protected). Above the roof, protection becomes a bit iffy/tricky but I felt pretty safe (use every option you get). There are a couple of insecure slabby moves with pinched flares up here (9+ or so). I thought this was the best pitch on the route. Not flaky at all.

BTW we did Slim Pickens two weeks earlier, and I thought that crux was way harder than the 10c move on Progression. I am quite tall (6'4"), and I think that the low-hand lieback crux on SP is a short's people move. At least that's my excuse and I'll stick to it!