Professional Business Men  M8

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Type:  Trad, Sport, Mixed, 2 pitches, 180 feet Consensus:  M8 [details] FA:  Brian Hall, Scott Backes, Sean Isaac, James Loveridge, Matt Giambrone. March, 2008 Submitted By:  Dave Rone on Mar 16, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Dave Rone and Burt Lindquist on the 2nd pitch of P...

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Description 

Aptly named, as everyone involved was "on the clock" during the Ice Fest when it was put up. This route has a little bit of everything. Steep ice down low, committing trad climbing in the middle, and steep bolt protected M climbing on top. It is broken into two pitches, although you could lead through with a 60m rope... The first pitch is M7 35m. Start out on the Grade 5 ice at the base. Come over the ice bulge and rock step into a steep rock alcove that becomes overhanging as you begin to approach the anchor. Fight the urge to move right onto a small ledge. Instead move left on steep ground to the large(er) ledge with a two bolt anchor. Two bolts protect this upper section.

The second pitch, M8 20m, leads out from the anchor through a series of steep, blocky roofs. Six bolts protect the steep section. The angle eases back after you come over the lip of the roof. Late season the finish may be dirty, wet, 5.8 trad climbing to the top, but earlier in the season it may be possible to climb good ice in the crack to the top. It is possible to forgo the nastiness to the top by rapping from two bolts at the lip.

Location 

Follow the North Loop trail into the Ice Palace. The route is on the big rock wall between High Fidelity and Eveil Des Sens. Turn left off the North Loop trail at the School House sign and work your way under the wall, aprox. 70m to the right of High Fidelity. It is the obvious line that starts with 10m of ice and goes straight up through the blocky roof.

Protection 

Either double ropes, or a single with a tag line. You will need two 60m ropes to rap from either anchor. The first pitch requires 4-5 medium screws, medium runners, cams to #4 Camalot or equivalent, set of nuts, and two Quickdraws for the top. The second pitch requires 6 quick draws plus anchor. If you decide to lead the last 10m to the top you will need #2-#4 Camalots, pins, and possibly short screws earlier in the season.

Rappel from a tat anchor around a tree at the top, or from two bolts at the lip.

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Dave Rone firing 1st pitch of "Professional Busine...

Dave Rone entering the M7 minutes in his tense mee...