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Hueco Wall
Routes Sorted
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Bonzai Biker S 
Finders Keepers S 
Lichen Monster S 
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Made in the Shade S 
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Prodigal Son S 
Red Devil S 
Roadrash S 
Scar Tissue S 
Sudden Impact S 
Wipeout S 

Prodigal Son 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: LA 2001
Season: dry
Page Views: 372
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Sep 24, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Start of Prodigal Son.

Description 

Awkward, reachy and tricky start. Clip first bolt, then perhaps traverse a couple feet to the right, fight for decent feet under the shallow overhang, then toss up to a thin vertical flake. Step back and clip second bolt (sequential and pumpy!) and pull up past the second small roof. Might be inviting to clip the bolt on Wipeout en route to the second bolt on this route, and this would be a safer option than whipping off whilst trying and failing to clip the second bolt. Fairly straightforward pocket climbing leads to the top.

Employ a neat variety of sport climbing techniques: undercling, layback, etc. Much steeper than it looks (they all are!).


Location 

Right of Sudden Impact. The third route to the right of the chimney break in the Hueco Wall. Located at the shallow prow near the middle of the wall, where the wall transitions from North facing to Northwest facing. Rappel route. Most of the route catches late afternoon/evening sun, with inviting shade just to the left where the wall faces more due North.


Protection 

6 lead bolts to a pair of open cold shuts.



Photos of Prodigal Son Slideshow Add Photo
Juggin' for the top of Prodigal Son.
Juggin' for the top of Prodigal Son.
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