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Routes in Conley Cove
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Bear hug T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nubs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Procrastination T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Throw gear here T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wet Willy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Where There's a Willy (There's a Way) T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Willy Wonky T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 729 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | nbrown on Jul 4, 2015 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Description
An older route that was originally put up solo with some aid but never free climbed. It has recently been revisited, cleaned up a bit more and freed. Two more lead bolts were added after the free ascent to facilitate a better (and safer) flow.
Start up on the higher shelf/ground and climb into a short chossy dihedral, then up onto the easy face with more chossy rock. Move up and work your way left under a small roof by a semi-loose flake (it moves but won't come off easily). From here traverse left past gear under the roof to gain the left diagonaling dihedral with 4 bolts. The rock up here is good and the climbing is funky. It gets gradually harder as you go, crescendoing at the last bolt -- a bouldery move to gain jugs below the anchor. Lower from anchor at the lip of the roof.
Start up on the higher shelf/ground and climb into a short chossy dihedral, then up onto the easy face with more chossy rock. Move up and work your way left under a small roof by a semi-loose flake (it moves but won't come off easily). From here traverse left past gear under the roof to gain the left diagonaling dihedral with 4 bolts. The rock up here is good and the climbing is funky. It gets gradually harder as you go, crescendoing at the last bolt -- a bouldery move to gain jugs below the anchor. Lower from anchor at the lip of the roof.
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