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Problem Child 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Jay van Sam, 1-13-10, 1st bolted by: Luke Childers, 12-12-09
Season: Winters can be difficult!!
Page Views: 2,671
Submitted By: Luke Childers on Dec 13, 2009
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Luke working the moves on Problem Child.
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Description 

Continue up the upper headwall above "Suburban Cowgirls; Instead of finishing "Suburban Cowgirls" at the the large ledge, rather, you continue up on ever thinning/steepening/powerful movements that are in your face all the way to the anchors. This has great moves on really nice solid rock.


Location 

This is located at the "Primo Wall" in Clear Creek Canyon. It is found in about the middle of the wall. It's a three bolt extension (I may add a fourth bolt at the extensions start) to a line called "Suburban Cowgirls." Rather than ending the line by exiting left on a large ledge found after the 3rd bolt, continue onto the upper head wall section of the wall. It's possible that this line could be as hard as 5.13b or so? Maybe harder? Maybe 12+'ish? It has good stone with fun and powerful moves. It's soon to be seen as an attractive new addition to "The Primo Wall" and its other hard lines.


Protection 

6-8 draws. The anchors do not require draws, but if you like the count would be 8 draws. The gear is fixed. I may add a fourth bolt at the beginning of the proj. extension? We will see.



Photos of Problem Child Slideshow Add Photo
Luke putting in the time, effort and money for this new line. Thanks for your efforts, can't wait for this line to open up!
Luke putting in the time, effort and money for thi...
Problem Child.
Problem Child.
When completed; the proj. ("Problem Child") will continue through the upper head wall as shown in this photo.
BETA PHOTO: When completed; the proj. ("Problem Chil...
Luke Childers working the old aid techniques while cleaning his new project at "The Primo Wall."
Luke Childers working the old aid techniques while...
The final moves.
The final moves.
Comments on Problem Child Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 18, 2014
By Luke Childers
Jan 13, 2010

Nice work, Jay!!! That was a proud F.A. you put down!! Can't wait to complete this stellar new line. Hell yea!!!

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jan 13, 2010
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

Thanks, Luke! I'm super psyched! This is a great addition to the Primo Wall, good eye and thanks again for all the effort you put in to establish this line. I appreciate you letting me take a stab at it while it was still a project, too, it means a lot. I guess no job, wife, kids or life in general does have its advantages.... I can climb all the f*ckin' time!

And now that it's open, I'm excited to hear what others think of the line, since I'm pretty biased about it.

By Luke Childers
Jan 17, 2010

What a great line this turned out to be!!! Fun climbing on steep technical stone. Can't wait to send this great addition to "The Primo Wall."

By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Feb 5, 2010
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

Too bad this you have to climb the worst existing route at Primo to get to this new extension.... Don't know if it's worth it yet.... My jury is still out.

By Blake Cash
Feb 8, 2010

There's actually room for another line of bolts on this cliff?

By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Apr 22, 2010
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

The second part of the climb makes climbing 'Suburban Cowgirls' worth it. Suburban Cowgirls is balancy and takes some technique, and I think that's why most people dislike it, it's not a gimme. But, the moves on the upper wall are fun!!!

By Luke Childers
May 1, 2010

It's a great line... if you don't believe it??? What the hey... what have you to lose...? Get on it and really find out what the line is all about folks. It's just a chuck of stone right??? So, as a Jedi might say, "do or do not, there is no speculation greater than true investigation."

JUST SEND IT, PEOPLE....

By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Aug 8, 2011
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

I finally got on this wild thing today. The first half (or SC) is actually not too bad and kinda fun, but the second half (which is Problem Child) is freaking sweet! It fires at you as soon as you leave the ledge with a nasty crux and then gets even better as you climb to the top. I hung the crux a couple times as I worked through it and left my draws on the last 2 bolts so I can come back and send. Jay- I'm interested what your beta is for this, let's get out this weekend.

By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Sep 3, 2011
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

Sent! Yes! What a great route. I freaking love this thing. ...and my friend used his iPhone to take video of the send. I'll post it soon

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Sep 3, 2011
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

Hell yeah kevin, nice work! Glad this thing finally saw a second ascent! Can't wait to see some video of this beast getting slayed!

By Rob Eison
From: Denver, CO
Sep 6, 2011

Nice work, Kevin. I was certain you would put it away when I saw you on it Saturday. Hey Jay, I also saw Steve Damboise send it in the spring in impressive fashion on his second attempt, so looks like Problem Child is beginning to get some of the punishment it deserves!

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

Oh shit nice! Well, I guess Kevin doesn't get the second ascent, but nice send and style regardless!

By Kevin Capps
From: Golden, CO
Sep 13, 2011
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

3rd, 4th, or 100th ascent, it doesn't matter. I'm just happy to climb it! crimpy crimpfest!

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Feb 26, 2013

Finally got on this a few weeks back. Totally worth climbing Suburban Cowgirls (I enjoy that awkward pitch anyway). Great, hard climbing on this thing on really cool stone. Nice vision, Luke. I thought getting off the ledge was really hard!

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Feb 26, 2013
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

Nice one, Dave! Glad others are starting to give this thing a looksee; I always thought the climbing was pretty good and hard on this thing! Lemme know if you want off-the-ledge beta, I've got some pretty good tricks.

By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Feb 27, 2013
rating: 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

I also got on this thing the other day and found the climbing to be great! I retract my earlier comments about the start, although I still think it isn't the best route around, I don't mind it as the gateway to the fantastic upper section. Great Rock and fun moves.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 27, 2013

Is it possible to do a "Flying Child" link?

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Feb 27, 2013
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

Yo Clear Creekers; there's definitely potential to do the Flying Child link-up. You would climb the first half of Flying Cowboys to the ledge, but instead of mantling, you would traverse the lip up and left and into Problem Child just above the crux. Could be done without any extra bolts, but you'd probably want to put one in.

Hmm, now I might have to bring the drill next time I'm out there....

@adampeters: I kinda thought the same. Suburban Cowgirls on its own never really appealed to me, but for some reason as the start to Problem Child, it seems fitting and better. Haha, your khaki uniform didn't do my pictures justice!

By Rob Eison
From: Denver, CO
5 days ago

  • *Bolt head and hanger came off the next to last bolt at some point this past week and needs to be replaced. This is the bolt that takes all the whippers from the upper crux. I left the quickdraw and hanger at the base of the climb as I won't be back to Primo for another week or so to fix it.