Probation climbs the cracks and corners at the left-hand side of the "Guard Tower". This formation is on the right side of the creek as you walk down it, just before the Cell Blocks. Look for a steep wall with a single bolted route (Warden, 5.7), that comes all the way down to the creek-bed on the left side. The Guard Tower is opposite this, with climbs starting 15 ft. out of the creek bottom. Probation is an easy route up the vegetated and somewhat grungy cracks on the left side of the wall. The climbing is easy and serves as a nice way to top-rope Parole (5.10+).
There are two bolts on this route. Easy climbing protects with small/medium nuts and cams. There are chains up top.
From: Casa do Cacete
Jun 16, 2006
Good first trad lead..There's a horn towards the top you can sling which will calm you right down if you're freaking out...
From: Tucson, Arizona
Oct 3, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
This makes a good 1st trad lead as the hardest moves are protected by bolts which really calms you down if you don't trust your gear yet. The top half is pretty easy climbing and not that hard to protect. The 2ed bolt is easy to miss as the path of least resistance is a few feet left of the 2ed bolt. After finishing this TR the 5.10 that uses the same chains. Its fun!