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 ADVANCED
West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dagger of the Mind S 
Monster in the Maze S 
Private Little War S 
Quartz Crystal S 
Stealing Fire S 
That Which Survives S 

Private Little War 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Equipped by Steve Edwards, it may still be undone...
Page Views: 499
Submitted By: Sean Denny on Oct 29, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

An interesting start off a good right-hand sidepull and an (optional) undercling to a good left-hand slot gets you going. Another move or two gets you to a ledge from which you can get the second bolt. Prepare yourself and cast off...

Great movement. Awesome position. You should do it.


Location 

Start smack dab in the middle of the wall, between Stealing Fire (to the left) and Monsters in the Maze (to the right).


Protection 

Bolts with open shuts at the top.
The upper headwall is very bolted. Perhaps 4-5 feet between bolts for the crux.
A stick clip might be nice for the start, but is not necessary.



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By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Nov 8, 2010

True, I never redpointed this line and I've not heard of it being done. A lot of pretty decent climbers have thrown themselves at it, at least for short periods of time. Bolts are close up top but a couple were dogging bolts only that I skipped on redpoint. Bad rope drag from the anchors so I used to lower off a fixed biner on the last bolt when I was working it. It's not all that hard as I've done it with a big overlapping one hang and I'm kind of a punter.

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Mar 14, 2012

Seriously? Is this thing going to sit here and wait 20 years for me to come back on do it? I'm training for it starting right now...