Private Idaho Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Right side of Private Idaho (based on D. Cramer's...
This 100' high cliff contains high-quality moderate crack climbs, difficult face and crack climbs, and several sport routes. The rock is excellent and this wall has much fewer people than the Lower Town Wall. It is surrounded by thick forest and the left side of the wall is shady at the base.
Park in town, walk down the railroad tracks, and midway through the bend, look on the right for a trail that starts with a wooden bridge. This trail goes to Private Idaho, Rattletale, Lookout Point, Duck Wall, the Diamond, as well as some popular boulders. After passing a large boulder on the right, the trail starts ascending through wooded talus. Soon thereafter is a T-junction; the trail to the left goes to Rattletale (and a way to Duck Wall & the Diamond), the trail to the right goes to Private Idaho, Hag Crag, Lookout Point, Duck Wall & the Diamond area. After a few more minutes of ascending overgrown talus, a trail takes off right (just below the 'Brad Driscoll' outcrop). This trail skirts below Private Idaho and provides access to all of the routes.
Climbing Season For the Lookout Point Area area.
Weather station 0.7 miles from here
22 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Private Idaho
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Private Idaho
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Private Idaho:
Magic Fern 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Wet Dream 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Spineless 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 80'
Eraserhead 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Private Idaho
900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c WA
: ... : Private Idaho
Starts to the left of "The prairie fire that wanders" and "Eraserhead", at a slightly elevated region behind an old stump. A few moves on a flake lead to a steep, sustained headwall with bolts. The crux is not a single move, but rather the pumpy sequence to the third bolt. Being flexible can help here. Though originally rated 10c, the route has been known to stop solid 5.11 climbers. A chained anchor lies at the top. One can rap with a single 60-m rope.From the anchor, one can do a short bit of ...[more] Browse More Classics in WA
Second climber moving up!
From: Las Vegas
Jun 3, 2009
The directions listed are based upon parking at the Bush House. Also, this area really isn't on the UTW trail.
By Jon Nelson
Sep 26, 2011
We fixed things so that PI is no longer linked to the Upper Wall Trail. And I clarified the directions.