Private Idaho Rock Climbing
Private Idaho has an interesting history. It was the first rock to see new development in 1994 or 1995 when things got started on Devil's Head - despite it having the very worse approach of all of the rocks developed here. Private Idaho presently hosts three routes, one being trad the other two being sport. Climbing is typical of the best stone at Devil's Head with some terrific incut flakes on a bullet proof matrix. The climbs face South by South-West and being high on the wall hold sun until late afternoon.
The best approach to Private Idaho is to climb the Crimpfest Wall via Dave's Dilemma and walk left to the Private Idaho nook. Another approach is to top out on Rock Nazi and scramble down into the Idaho nook.
Climbing Season For the Devil's Head area.
Weather station 7.0 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Private Idaho
Private Idaho 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c CO
: South Platte
: ... : Private Idaho
See the description for Hidden Treasure. Private Idaho is just to the left and is only slightly easier. Both routes tend to work on the fingers despite the incut flakes. A bad bolt on this line was backed up by a good bolt and it appears that getting out the first may be more of task than is warranted. Three stars here as well - Private Idaho is just as interesting as Hidden Treasures....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
By Kevin Neilson
Jul 30, 2011
This area is hard to access, but it's worth it--it's just a nice spot and the two sport climbs are stellar. We got in by rappelling from the top of pitch 1 of Remote Control. (Watch for rope snags when you pull!) You can't get back out that way, though. You can get in and out from the anchors of Dave's Dilemma, but be aware that those anchors are in a spot which is a bit scary to walk to. It's best to set up a short belay to get somebody to the anchors from the top.