|Lower Security Risk
Lower Security Risk is the lower of the three Security Risk Buttresses. The route Prism is located on the same buttress as the climb Security Risk for which the crag is named. At the far north of the Security Risk buttress are located two big, left-facing dihedrals. The furthest north located dihedral is the route Scraping By, 10a. The arete just south of the dihedral is home to the 12 a/b route, Eldo Of The People. Prism climbs the big, left-facing dihedral just south of and right of Scraping By.
The route begins off some large blocks at the very base of the dihedral. Climbing starts through a short section of large hanging blocks before entering the dihedral proper. The rock quality through this initial section is less than solid. Do not get discouraged as the rock quality improves quickly. Meduim-sized stoppers and cams can be placed here though placement is from an awkward stance. From this point upward on good rock, jam and stem up the remainder of the dihedral. Traverse left under the large roof and finish by turning the corner at the end on the very edge ofthe arete, above the routes Scraping By and Eldo of the People. A two bolt anchor will be found just above the end of the traverse.
Rappel or continue on easy ground to the top. These anchors provide for easy top roping of the nearby routes.
Protection is good. 1 set of medium size stoppers and and cams up to 4 inch. For additional protection take one extra 3 inch cam.Two bolt anchor, 60 m single rope rappel.
So nice to be standing on the big flake.
Starting the wide section. Laybacking and occasion...
Cindy stemming around the rotten stuff.
Last few moves.
Jan 13, 2010
Definitely a sandbag at 5.9 and very scary, hanging blocks to start.
|By Mark Roth|
Jul 13, 2011
Pretty fun if you can get through the loose stuff at the bottom. Big stems avoid most of the rotten rock.... Then a nice crack and better rock all the way to the anchor.
Easy for old school 8+ but hard for a bolted 10. I guess the consensus is 5.9....
|By Jay Eggleston|
Jul 14, 2011
I don't think this is a sandbag for 5.9. Every hard move has a great rest following it. Big hexes work great to supplement cams on this one.
|By Kevin Neilson|
Aug 17, 2011
The bottom of the route looks grungy, but I'd say the rock is solid and takes pretty good gear. I used Aliens at the bottom and bomber large cams at the top and got in a couple of nuts. I think 5.9 is a good rating, and I thought the pro was good. This route and Security Risk combine for a nice morning of trad, though one shouldn't leave without getting on at least one of the stellar sport routes.
|By Dougald MacDonald|
Apr 15, 2012
Don't let the few feet of grunge at the bottom put you off. This is a fun and well protected route.