Prism 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Dan Hare and Alan Bradley |
| Submitted By: | Chuck Graves on Apr 16, 2005 |
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Entering the upper corner after some steep, funky ...
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Seasonal Raptor Closure Lifted Early at Security Risk MORE INFO >>>
The seasonal raptor closure has been lifted at Security Risk and Eagle Rock as of April 16, 2013. The closure is still in effect at Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Lower Security Risk is the lower of the three Security Risk Buttresses. The route Prism is located on the same buttress as the climb Security Risk for which the crag is named. At the far north of the Security Risk buttress are located two big, left-facing dihedrals. The furthest north located dihedral is the route Scraping By, 10a. The arete just south of the dihedral is home to the 12 a/b route, Eldo Of The People. Prism climbs the big, left-facing dihedral just south of and right of Scraping By. The route begins off some large blocks at the very base of the dihedral. Climbing starts through a short section of large hanging blocks before entering the dihedral proper. The rock quality through this initial section is less than solid. Do not get discouraged as the rock quality improves quickly. Meduim-sized stoppers and cams can be placed here though placement is from an awkward stance. From this point upward on good rock, jam and stem up the remainder of the dihedral. Traverse left under the large roof and finish by turning the corner at the end on the very edge ofthe arete, above the routes Scraping By and Eldo of the People. A two bolt anchor will be found just above the end of the traverse. Rappel or continue on easy ground to the top. These anchors provide for easy top roping of the nearby routes.
Protection Protection is good. 1 set of medium size stoppers and and cams up to 4 inch. For additional protection take one extra 3 inch cam.Two bolt anchor, 60 m single rope rappel.
Starting the wide section. Laybacking and occasion...
| Cindy stemming around the rotten stuff.
| Halfway up.
| So nice to be standing on the big flake.
| Last few moves.
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By s.kimball Jan 13, 2010
| Definitely a sandbag at 5.9 and very scary, hanging blocks to start. |
By Mark Roth From: Boulder Jul 13, 2011
| Pretty fun if you can get through the loose stuff at the bottom. Big stems avoid most of the rotten rock.... Then a nice crack and better rock all the way to the anchor. Easy for old school 8+ but hard for a bolted 10. I guess the consensus is 5.9.... |
By Jay Eggleston From: Littleton Jul 14, 2011
| I don't think this is a sandbag for 5.9. Every hard move has a great rest following it. Big hexes work great to supplement cams on this one. |
By Kevin Neilson From: Boulder Aug 17, 2011
| The bottom of the route looks grungy, but I'd say the rock is solid and takes pretty good gear. I used Aliens at the bottom and bomber large cams at the top and got in a couple of nuts. I think 5.9 is a good rating, and I thought the pro was good. This route and Security Risk combine for a nice morning of trad, though one shouldn't leave without getting on at least one of the stellar sport routes. |
By Dougald MacDonald Apr 15, 2012
| Don't let the few feet of grunge at the bottom put you off. This is a fun and well protected route. |
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