Prise de Fer
||Trad, Mixed, 6 pitches, 800', Grade IV
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b M5+ [details]|
|FA: ||Perhaps Andy Grauch and Chris Sheridan 1/29/11, perhaps not|
|Season: ||Mid winter to early spring|
|Page Views: ||784|
|Submitted By: ||Chris Sheridan on Jan 31, 2011|
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The route Prise de Fer shown in red. Photo by And...
Prise de Fer climbs a more direct line following a left-facing corner system to the left of Dog House
, gains the east ridge of The Saber
, and continues to the summit of The Saber from there.
P1-3: Climb the first three pitches of Dog House
to a large, wide ledge. The fourth pitch of Dog House
angles off right starting at the back right side of the ledge. Instead, climb a vertical chimney system system starting at the center of the ledge for another 50 feet. (M5+, 5.7, 280 feet total)
(Pitch one and two of Dog House
can easily be combined if you're careful about rope drag, but I'll keep the pitch numbering here consistent with the Dog House
description for clarity)
P4: Travers a small ledge left for 10 feet to gain an easier crack system then continue up till you run out of rope or the drag gets too bad. (5.7, 200 feet)
P5: Continue up fun and easier mixed terrain to the east ridge of The Saber. (5.5, 100 feet)
P6: Climb the east ridge of The Saber, alternately traversing along north side of the ridge and climbing the ridge crest. (5.6, 100 feet)
P7: Continue on to the summit of The Saber. (5.6, 150 feet)
There are many possible descents. From the summit of The Saber, the easiest way off may be to rappel down the east face of the Saber. Four rappels will get you to the ledge where Prise de Fer and Dog House
split. From there, a 70m rap will just get you to the base.
Cams to 4 inches, stoppers, a few pins, large Hexes, maybe a stubby screw just in case.
Chris Sheridan at the top of the 3rd pitch of Pris...
Looking down at the Lake of Glass, The Foil, and S...
Andy Grauch starting up the 4th pitch of Prise de ...
Andy Grauch starting up the east ridge of The Sabe...
Andy Grauch climbing fun terrain on the fifth pitc...
Chris Sheridan climbing the last pitch to the summ...