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Talk to Me S 

Princess Vicious 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Euan Cameron, 22nd May 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 655
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on May 23, 2010

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Moving through the steep up sections on Princess V...


This climb takes a more or less straight line up to the top of the crag. The meat of the climb is found in the first 30 feet, but the climbing above while much easier (5.10), is still enjoyable with good moves in an exposed position.

Start directly below the 1st bolt and the fang of rock that sticks out of the crag about 20 feet up.

Delicately move up to the first bolt (some people may prefer to stick clip this). Continue with some technical moves up to a good hold and the second bolt. Now make the crux sequence to gain the large fang like hold. Once at the hold clip the 3rd bolt and move onto the large sloping shelf.

Continue up the shelf into the square cut corner. Move up the corner then up the steep wall above to gain a rounded sloping ramp. From the ramp climb the overhanging wall above then go straight up to the anchors.


Left side of the area. The climb starts right of a vertical orange paint mark and right of Keep Hope Alive.


8 bolts, double ring and bolt anchors

Photos of Princess Vicious Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing through the crux on the first ascent of P...
Climbing through the crux on the first ascent of P...
Rock Climbing Photo: The meat of the climb
BETA PHOTO: The meat of the climb
Rock Climbing Photo: Princess Vicious 5.11b Topo
BETA PHOTO: Princess Vicious 5.11b Topo

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