|Consensus:||YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]|
|Submitted By:||ldsclimber on May 2, 2011 with updates from lobishomem and 1 more|
|Comments on Princess Jordini and Her Magic Flute||Add Comment|
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May 4, 2015
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
|Climbed this last Saturday (5/2/15) with my kids. They really liked it. The start is a little tricky but it is a very easy climb after that. It is low angle with several large holds.|
By Steven Jones
Dec 21, 2015
Really solid 5.5. The start is kind of tricky unless you want to traverse over from the side, but after that it's smooth sailing on big pockets with some jugs here and there. Slightly below vertical with a good rest about 2/3 of the way up, then vertical to the chains.
THIS ROUTE IS VERY RUN OUT. At least in my opinion. There's only 3 bolts and its about 50' to the chains. Definitely groundfall potential between bolts 1 and 2, and then really easy to deck on the ledge in between 2 and 3. If you have someone comfortable with higher grades though, it won't be hard to get up at all. Once you get the TR set up (I used double draws at the top to minimize rope drag) it's fun for everyone.
Kind of north facing so not a ton of sun in the morning.