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Princess Ella's Magical Adventure S 
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Princess Ella's Magical Adventure 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 270', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Skoloda, Jackson, Jackson
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 5,503
Submitted By: Fleetwood Matt on Oct 12, 2011

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The tyrolean over the creek. Just on top of the w...

Description 

This is a scenic, little, 4-pitch outing on Red Mountain Pass. It has a short approach, great views, and solid quartzite rock. There is an exciting headwall finish. Thanks to the first ascensionists for the work to put in this nice moderate (think bell-shaped curve.) Bring granny!

Location 

Approach as for the Waterfall Wall. There is a new tyrolean that was installed fall 2011. After the tyrolean, head right up a gully then go climber's left (south) along the base of the cliff maybe 150 yards. Princess Ella's Magical Adventure starts at the toe of a small buttress maybe 30 feet above the creek. Shiny bolts head up 75 feet to a ledge and a big pine. 3 more pitches of friendly bolts get you up the headwall finish to a big ledge and great views.

Descend with 4 raps with a single 70m rope.

There are a few loose rocks, but overall it has great rock. You can scope it from the highway 100 yards south of the parking spot, just above a scree slope that goes all the way to the creek.

Protection 

11 quickdraws. Anchor slings. Rap device. Single 70m rope. Helmet.


Photos of Princess Ella's Magical Adventure Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of the route.  If you start going up a talus...
BETA PHOTO: Start of the route. If you start going up a talus...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping off the top of PEMA.  In the background:  ...
Rapping off the top of PEMA. In the background: ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Princess Ella's Magical Adventure topo.
BETA PHOTO: Princess Ella's Magical Adventure topo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Such a scenic tyrolean!
Such a scenic tyrolean!
Rock Climbing Photo: Princess Ella's Magical Adventure beta photo.
BETA PHOTO: Princess Ella's Magical Adventure beta photo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Stellar day in Red Mountain Creek Gorge, 10/12/15.
Stellar day in Red Mountain Creek Gorge, 10/12/15.
Rock Climbing Photo: A couple of unknown climbers on top of PEMA's 4th ...
A couple of unknown climbers on top of PEMA's 4th ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Craig at the top of PEMA.
Craig at the top of PEMA.

Comments on Princess Ella's Magical Adventure Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sam Rushing
Oct 12, 2011

By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Jul 17, 2012

What's up with the name?
By Fleetwood Matt
Jul 18, 2012

Jeff's firstborn is Princess Ella.
By shmancy
Aug 4, 2012

Had a great time on this route, my phone app didn't have all the info on the last pitch variation, so we ended up doing the Happy Ending which was very nice, but we could have used a cam or two. We will go back to do the standard ending. Lots of fun!
By Ben Coyle
From: durango co
Jun 24, 2013

Beta video of the descent on this classic, moderate route.
By garrettem
Sep 22, 2013

Great route and very fun relaxing multi-pitch. You can combine pitch 1 and 2 on the way up, two extendable draws will help if you combine but probably aren't absolutely necessary.
By Erik in CO
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 25, 2014

At least one extended draw on pitch 3 would be nice. Otherwise you end up with a fair amount of rope drag by the end.
By PapaofEleanor
From: grand junction, colorado
Jul 30, 2016

For what it's worth...pretty reasonable way to do descent from top of fourth pitch with single 60m rope. Either lower/single fixed line rap of 2nd/3rd etc back to top of 3rd pitch rap/belay station. Last one down raps with single 60 to first bolt clipped on way up; nice stance here to pull rope (or have partner pull...just need to keep a grip on rope for retying in); once rope is down tie back in and do very moderate belayed downclimb about 8-10'. Then 3 more single 60m raps, more orthodox, get you to the base.

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