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Trail of The Navajo 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 600', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Coyne, Reynolds
Season: All
Page Views: 1,619
Submitted By: Josh Gross on Mar 5, 2010

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Interesting approach

Description 

This desert testpiece can easily be considered the "Astroman" of the area. The route demands crack climbing from tips to offwidth, roofs, delicate face climbing and bolted steep slab. The Navajo sandstone gets better the higher you climb. The route contains 3 cruxes, although you could consider the 4th pitch the overall crux. Every belay is from two bolts on a good ledge.

Pitch 1: Climb the obvious left facing corner. Clip the random drilled angle out left of the start of the corner to keep your rope out of potential seasonal poison ivy. When you get to the bush just before the anchor, traverse low to the anchor. 170 feet, 5.10

Pitch 2: Traverse directly left clipping thre bolts. 120 feet (no elevation gain) 5.4

Pitch 3: Sport climb up and right following 9 bolts. 60 feet, 5.10

Pitch 4: The nutting pitch. Enter and climb the long left facing dihedral. Protect with nuts, offset and regular and small cams. 100 feet, 5.11a

Pitch 5: Continue up the corner as it pulls the first roof and into the wide crack. Eventually slither into the chimney and belay in a deep alcove. 60 feet, 5.10+

Pitch 6: Begin climbing in the very back of the alcove into the bombay chimney and out the roof. Walk you cams to the lip to minimize drag. Continue up the corner to a small stance belay. 100 feet. 5.11a

Pitch 7: Continue up the clean varnihsed corner to another deep alcove. 70 feet, 5.10

Pitch 8: Begin deep in the back of the alcove, up into the bombay. Walk you cams to the lip with you again and pull the roof and continue to the anchors at the rim. 30 feet, 5.11c

Descent: Rap the route, bring new cord as anchors get intense UV exposure

1: Rim to top of p7, 1 rope
2: Top of 7, to top of p4, 2 60s. Traverse 10 feet left to pull rope away from crack.
3: Top of 4 to top of p2, 2 60s
4: Top of 2 to ground, 2 60s

Location 

Directly across the river from the Goose Island campground. Approach from the boat ramp on the North side of the river. The route is the obvious left facing dihedral from the ground to the rim.

Protection 

Double set of cams from green alien to #3 camalot, 1 new 4, 5, 6 camalots. Healthy set of nuts includeing offsets. Extendable runners and quickdraws


Photos of Trail of The Navajo Slideshow Add Photo
Matt Pickren leading pitch 1
Matt Pickren leading pitch 1
Josh working out the roof at the start of pitch 6
Josh working out the roof at the start of pitch 6
Looking up at the rest of the route from the top o...
Looking up at the rest of the route from the top o...
Princess
Princess
Matt following the nuting pitch
Matt following the nuting pitch
Pitch 7, with pitch 6 anchors visible.
Pitch 7, with pitch 6 anchors visible.
Josh Gross entering the squeeze chimney on pitch 5
Josh Gross entering the squeeze chimney on pitch 5
All fun and games on Pitch 8. don't bring a helmet...
All fun and games on Pitch 8. don't bring a helmet...

Comments on Trail of The Navajo Add Comment
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By Matt Pickren
Mar 5, 2010

The route is awesome. It is 8 quality pitches within 5 minutes of downtown Moab. Everything from Indian Creek quality varnished tips cracks, to bolt protected slab, to roof OW. A true test piece for the 5.11 climber. DO IT!
By Matt Pickren
Aug 26, 2010

Here is some comments by Coyne. Apparently he called it "Trail of The Navajo" It is about 200 meters L of fun ramp. Easily seen from the campground a mile or so up the river. This is the large L facing corner directly across from the campground. Starts in the L facing corner on the ground, then face climbs up and L to the huge L facing corner system. Need everything from a black alien to several large pieces. 8 pitches 11D (could probably be reduced to 10 or 11- A0). Can either rap the route (real easy to get ropes stuck), or walk off an endless sea of slabs with difficult route finding (do not do this in the dark/dusk). Killer climb, comprable to Astroman (in a desert sort of way). Topo at Pagan."
By Jclimb
From: Moab, UT
May 23, 2011

This route should be listed with other North Side routes. It is not on the Sorceror's Apprentice.
By jakobi
From: moab, utah
Feb 27, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Where did the name "Princess" come from? As Matt mentioned Leonard Coyne who did the FA named it "Trail of the Navajo". Any chance it could be changed to the correct name in respect of the first ascensionist and in the interest of historical accuracy?
By Jason Lantz
Feb 27, 2013

Princess might be the next climb up river....
By Matt Pickren
Feb 28, 2013

I can't remember the exact chain of events but its something like this:

-Josh and I climbed the rote (Josh already had once before ((its that good)).
-We called it 'Astroman of the Desert,' knowing it had a name, until we found the FA's name.
-Either Coyne or Reynolds contacted us (Reynolds I believe?) and said they called it 'Princess'
-Coyne then brought the current name to MtnProj's attention
By jakobi
From: moab, utah
Mar 5, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This climb is a desert aficianado's classic. Josh's route description and gear suggestion is great but I might suggest a blue big bro for pitch five, though it would probably be difficult to place especially if you layback it like I did. Also bring a camera so you can capture the moment as the leader does ridiculous things on pitch 8. Thanks Josh and Matt for the info.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Mar 11, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

What a great route! Calling this the Astroman of the desert isn't to far off either.