|Main Wall, left side
Somewhat of an Index classic, Princely can be pretty popular. The first pitch is the best part. The Princely Ambitions area is basically the first part of the Main Wall you pass directly by on the main trail. Princely starts up an easy flake to the left of some shorter bolted routes whose anchors are pretty clearly visible from the ground. P1 (5.9) Head left up the easy flake/ramp, then out onto the face past one bolt (used to be two bolts...), then up more flakes. At the top of the flakes, follow a chalked-up ledge traversing left and then straight up the corner all the way to the belay (bolts). The pitch is long, so don't give up on the anchor, it is there. P2 (5.8) Continue up the left crack to a rap station.
Standard trad rack to 3-4". A small cam is very nice for the traverse (e.g. purple Alien). Larger cams are nice for the second pitch. There are anchors/rap stations at the top of both pitches. You need 2 60-m ropes to rap the route.
BETA PHOTO: Kevin Rose on the first pitch
Allie seconding the first pitch of Princely Ambiti...
Chris Lewis in his sexy pants!! lol
|Comments on Princely Ambitions
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Jul 2, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
This is a VERY long pitch that wanders, so bring lots of long slings! Some committing moves will be encountered, so I recommend being comfortable at the grade. A little bit of everything here including slab, liebacks, steep hand traverses, etc. Bring a big assortment of gear up to #3 Camalot. A 70m rope just barely makes the big ledge, but some downclimbing from the ledge would be required.
|By dean rose|
Jan 29, 2007
I start this climb from off the trail to Rodger's Corner and routinely lower off and do laps on the first pitch with a 70 meter rope. One of my favorite pitches anywhere!
From: Las Vegas
Jul 3, 2007
A 60m rope will get you off if you angle down and to the climber's left.
|By Chris Duca|
From: Havertown, PA
Aug 13, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
I rapped this yesterday with a 60m rope. As the aforementioned post says, angle down and to the climbers left.
|By Ian G.|
From: PDX, OR
Aug 30, 2009
The 5.9 mantle is not nearly as hard as it looks. Definitely bring enough slings and use them! I didn't and suffered accordingly...
|By Phill T|
Jul 27, 2012
stellar! sling your last piece (#3 c4 for me) before you make the face traverse out right super long and then dont place anything until you get to the hand traverse (green alien) to avoid hanging yourself with ropedrag later on. I think I used 12 slings in all.
Apr 2, 2013
This climb is top rate.
I've led it twice and still think it's intimidating. Rope drag and pro aren't really an issue. What get's me are continuing 5.8 moves after the traverse. You have to protect that or risk a long swinging fall and certain injury, but then above that you risk catching a leg behind the lead rope if you come off.
I wouldn't want to fall there. There's several places up high on this pitch that I wouldn't want to fall.
Will I do it again? For sure. Is it 10A? I doubt it, but it's surely harder than Godzilla.
The second pitch is also worth doing. It's deceptively hard and probably more like 5.9 for just a move at the bottom, but it's very straight forward and well protected.
|By Thad Arnold|
May 23, 2013
A good way to manage rope drag but also protect the mantle move where the climb starts traversing back to the left is to place in the horizontal before doing the mantle (a red C3 for me) and then just reach down and clean the piece after you've done the move.