Prince Valiant 5.9-
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Thompson Canyon's southern access via the private ranch is now closed. MORE INFO >>>
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route. See below for details.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if we can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure and spread the word.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description A straight-forward and fun introduction climb to those new to the Tower area. Very featured climbing with loads of hold options with a steeper couple of moves at the top but still plenty of good holds to keep the rating reasonable.
Location This is the first bolted route to the left of the corner/dihedral at the Sleeping Beauty wall.
Protection 4 bolts to chain anchor. The first bolt appears pretty high but the climbing to that point is very easy.
| Comments on Prince Valiant |
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By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.9-
| For the beginning 5.9 leader, 4 bolts on a route that's 50 feet long may get your attention. Fun climb though. |
By Williampenner
From: The 505
Jun 16, 2008
| Particularly when those 50 ft are a giant chosspile. |
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.9-
| Interesting comment above. I had avoided this route in the past because I'd heard that it was loose (ref: D. Jackson's Rock Climbing New Mexico), but that wasn't my experience at all. In fact, with the exception of the bottom 10 feet being loose in spots (easily avoidable), the entire route felt great. Perhaps traffic has cleaned it up a bit? |
By JMo
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 8, 2010
| i believe the first ascent goes to Jeff Ford, now of Flagstaff-- thanks Jeff! fun climb, any longish spots between bolts are on easy terrain. |
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 12, 2012
| This is one of those routes, where I'm happy there is no way I could fall on 5.9 at the tower. I've done this route several times and it is both a chossfest and dangerously bolted if you were even going to think about falling. If you fell from the anchors, you'd likely ledge out pretty hard. Not a good beginners route, if you want an easy route the one to the left is much better. |
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