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Sleeping Beauty Wall
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Prince Valiant 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jeff Ford
Page Views: 644
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on May 26, 2008
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Reaching for the pockets near the top of the route...

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Description 

A straight-forward and fun introduction climb to those new to the Tower area. Very featured climbing with loads of hold options with a steeper couple of moves at the top but still plenty of good holds to keep the rating reasonable.


Location 

This is the first bolted route to the left of the corner/dihedral at the Sleeping Beauty wall.


Protection 

4 bolts to chain anchor. The first bolt appears pretty high but the climbing to that point is very easy.



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By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

For the beginning 5.9 leader, 4 bolts on a route that's 50 feet long may get your attention. Fun climb though.

By Williampenner
From: The 505
Jun 16, 2008

Particularly when those 50 ft are a giant chosspile.

By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

Interesting comment above. I had avoided this route in the past because I'd heard that it was loose (ref: D. Jackson's Rock Climbing New Mexico), but that wasn't my experience at all. In fact, with the exception of the bottom 10 feet being loose in spots (easily avoidable), the entire route felt great. Perhaps traffic has cleaned it up a bit?

By JMo
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 8, 2010

i believe the first ascent goes to Jeff Ford, now of Flagstaff-- thanks Jeff! fun climb, any longish spots between bolts are on easy terrain.

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 12, 2012

This is one of those routes, where I'm happy there is no way I could fall on 5.9 at the tower. I've done this route several times and it is both a chossfest and dangerously bolted if you were even going to think about falling. If you fell from the anchors, you'd likely ledge out pretty hard. Not a good beginners route, if you want an easy route the one to the left is much better.