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Prince Humperdink 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 32'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ???-(3/98)
Page Views: 561
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

The hardest route at Gallows Edge. Work your way through short, steep and powerful moves through a series of two-finger pockets near the arete to a huge jug below the very high first bolt. Using the arete on the right apparently makes it a bit easier (5.11-ish) but seems natural and arguably more fun. A few more steep moves lead to the second bolt before the angle backs off past the third bolt to the anchors for The Fire Swamp.

Location 

Listed as route #4 on the Gallows Edge Main Wall photo topo.

Protection 

3 bolts to shared anchors with The Fire Swamp. The first bolt is way up there and the crux moves come before it so using a stick clip is highly recommended.


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By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jan 19, 2009

If you don't stick clip, get a good spot and maybe a pad because the landing isn't too good. The arete is assumed to be off, at least until the arete on the left converges with the one on the right (around bolt 2). Still, I suppose it could be entertaining any way you do it.

It's hard for me to like this contrived route with classic 12a climbs like Monsterpiece Theater and Adam Ant only five minutes away.
By Ethan Coon
Jul 4, 2009

Not just that, but the hardest sequence all goes before the first bolt... after clipping the first bolt, you're home free (assuming you haven't decked the 15+ feet already...)
By Owen Summerscales
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 17, 2012

Ok, so the natural route starts at the right arete and goes left. 5.11c? The 12a version is highly contrived. Both are more like a boulder problem, in the fact that you dont get any bolts, at least until the crux is over. But the movement is excellent, the rock is good, but its just very short. This climb has suffered from bad bolting. All the adjacent routes have their first bolt 10ft off the deck. If you stick clip this, you may as well be toproping!
By Jason Young
From: Los Alamos, NM
Feb 1, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I finally got on this "route" a couple of weeks ago. I thought that the way it is bolted was fine for the natural line of pockets that it follows. However, I did just TR it off of the anchors of "The Fire Swamp" (with a directional).

I don't know why anyone would contrive to call this route 12a when the way it is bolted follows a natural line of good holds that seemed about 11a at the most. However, this was definitely worth getting on as a quick TR as the holds and movement were enjoyable. You could and should stick-clip the first bolt if you plan to lead this one, although none of the clips seemed super-strenuous if you use the good holds that are well within reach of the bolts.