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 more Dirtbag Deals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Approaching Armageddon  
B-b-buttress 
Beerless Leader 
Friend Zone, The 
Hard Times 
Hocus Focus 
Paper Wafer 
Primitive Times  
Scrubbing Bubbas 
Very Nice Crack 

Primitive Times  

5.8

   
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Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
FA: Tom Armstrong late 1980s
Submitted By: lee hansche on Oct 17, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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BETA PHOTO: this one climbs the cracks through the moss :)

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Description 

This one is another that would be well worth while if it was clean and solid. However. This is not the case. It is covered in moss and the rock is very fragile in some places.

Interesting enjoyable moves lead up the corner then switch to the arete on the right side. As if this part wasn't dirty enough haha the exit from the corner is so piled with leaves and over grown i was laughing out loud as i grabbed fist fulls of plants while manteling.

After this you might want to set up a belay and then you can rap off or continue up picking your route how you like...Dirty...


Location 

This one climbs the corner just left of the nasty offwidth.


Protection 

Trad gear to top.



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By twellman
Oct 18, 2012

I think this could be a nice climb if it were thoroughly cleaned and retrobolted. The corner certainly is a nice feature, and the reason it's so dirty is because no one climbs it, being a non-splitter trad route at Rumney. Anyone else have an opinion on this?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 18, 2012

Agree, or if there would be a good sport route that could use shared anchors, even better, then people could at least TR it if the gear is bad. Maybe the offwidth could be bolted for the sport way to an anchor.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 18, 2012

so many routes would be cleaner if people ventured beyond the close crags... and brought a little gear...

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 8, 2013

I started scrubbing the line to the right of this (the "nasty offwidth" to the white crack above), which will end up sharing the anchor of Hard times. When I go to put the bolts in, I'll put in an anchor in for this climb. It looked to me like if it was cleaned it wouldn't be too bad to protect, and looked to be nice climbing. From my route, with a piece of gear, you should be able to traverse over to where I was thinking of putting the anchor, or just tension across from the higher Hard Times anchor.