Primitive Paradox 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Shannon Stegg - 1978 |
| Submitted By: | saxfiend on Dec 15, 2006 |
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Scott Perkins leads the exposed second pitch of Pr...
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Description A great climb on beautiful rock, Primitive Paradox is well protected but strenuous in places. The exposure is some of the nicest in the gorge. P1 - start up an easy slab into a right-facing corner. Continue up the corner to mount a shallow ledge, then traverse left on the ledge to a bolted belay. 100' P2 - from the belay, move slightly right, then climb another short right-facing corner (pro is a little hard to find here). Continue up a blocky face to a right-leaning, right-facing corner. Climb this to another ledge; make a mantel finish on slopey holds to reach a bolted anchor. 100'
Location Starts a short walk down the trail from where it intersects the cliff; about 20' right of BT Express. Rap from the bolted anchor at the top; a 60-meter rope is probably just long enough to get you to the ground.
Protection Small to medium gear (nuts, cams, tricams). Bolted belays/anchors.
Pitch 1 of Primitive Paradox, Tallulah Gorge, GA.
| leading the 2nd pitch of pp
| dave on the traverse on the first pitch of PP
| dave following 2nd pitch of PP
| Leading P2 of Primitive Paradox on a gorgeous New ...
| Jeff getting into the biz on PP, Tallulah, GA
| BETA PHOTO: Primitive Paradox topo; my first stab at...
| Top of P1, looking back across short traverse.
| Climbers on PP 10/2008
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| Comments on Primitive Paradox |
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By Br'er Rabbit From: The Deeper South Mar 29, 2007
| Leader should be mindful of the follower beginning the traverse at the top of P1...throw in a few pieces along the way. |
By Jeff Mekolites From: HOTlanta, GA Nov 9, 2008
| At the start of the second pitch, there is a large scary flake that is right on the belay ledge. I hadn't noticed it in the past but when I stepped on this time, it shifted. Be careful of this thing. |
By saxfiend Administrator From: Decatur, GA Jan 1, 2009
| Great climb! Harder than I remembered, but maybe I was just having a bad day. Leading the final moves on P2 are what I'd call the crux of the climb; I blew it and took a nice long fall. |
By Tom Fralich From: Fresno, CA Nov 15, 2010
| Really an excellent climb. I stopped here on the way from ATL to T-Wall and was really impressed. Beautiful area and both this route and Mescaline Daydream were well-protected and high-quality. |
By JohnWesely From: Athens, GA Jan 28, 2013
| I can't believe I waited five years to get on this. This is one of the best 5.9s I have done anywhere. |
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