A great climb on beautiful rock, Primitive Paradox is well protected but strenuous in places. The exposure is some of the nicest in the gorge.
P1 - start up an easy slab into a right-facing corner. Continue up the corner to mount a shallow ledge, then traverse left on the ledge to a bolted belay. 100'
P2 - from the belay, move slightly right, then climb another short right-facing corner (pro is a little hard to find here). Continue up a blocky face to a right-leaning, right-facing corner. Climb this to another ledge; make a mantel finish on slopey holds to reach a bolted anchor. 100'
Starts a short walk down the trail from where it intersects the cliff; about 20' right of BT Express. Rap from the bolted anchor at the top; a 60-meter rope is probably just long enough to get you to the ground.
Small to medium gear (nuts, cams, tricams). Bolted belays/anchors.
From: The Deeper South
Mar 29, 2007
Leader should be mindful of the follower beginning the traverse at the top of P1...throw in a few pieces along the way.
|By Jeff Mekolites|
From: HOTlanta, GA
Nov 9, 2008
At the start of the second pitch, there is a large scary flake that is right on the belay ledge. I hadn't noticed it in the past but when I stepped on this time, it shifted. Be careful of this thing.
From: Decatur, GA
Jan 1, 2009
Great climb! Harder than I remembered, but maybe I was just having a bad day. Leading the final moves on P2 are what I'd call the crux of the climb; I blew it and took a nice long fall.
|By Tom Fralich|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 15, 2010
Really an excellent climb. I stopped here on the way from ATL to T-Wall and was really impressed. Beautiful area and both this route and Mescaline Daydream were well-protected and high-quality.
From: Red River Gorge
Jan 28, 2013
I can't believe I waited five years to get on this. This is one of the best 5.9s I have done anywhere.