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Primitive Paradox 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rob Culbertson, Steve Poulsen, Allan Vandeford - 1966
Page Views: 5,999
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Scott Perkins leads the exposed second pitch of Pr...

Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A great climb on beautiful rock, Primitive Paradox is well protected but strenuous in places. The exposure is some of the nicest in the gorge.

P1 - start up an easy slab into a right-facing corner. Continue up the corner to mount a shallow ledge, then traverse left on the ledge to a bolted belay. 100'

P2 - from the belay, move slightly right, then climb another short right-facing corner (pro is a little hard to find here). Continue up a blocky face to a right-leaning, right-facing corner. Climb this to another ledge; make a mantel finish on slopey holds to reach a bolted anchor. 100'

Location 

Starts a short walk down the trail from where it intersects the cliff; about 20' right of BT Express. Rap from the bolted anchor at the top; a 60-meter rope is probably just long enough to get you to the ground.

Protection 

Small to medium gear (nuts, cams, tricams). Bolted belays/anchors.


Photos of Primitive Paradox Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 of Primitive Paradox, Tallulah Gorge, GA.
Pitch 1 of Primitive Paradox, Tallulah Gorge, GA.
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading P2 of Primitive Paradox on a gorgeous New ...
Leading P2 of Primitive Paradox on a gorgeous New ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading high on P2. T-shirts in January!
Leading high on P2. T-shirts in January!
Rock Climbing Photo: dave following 2nd pitch of PP
dave following 2nd pitch of PP
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of P1, looking back across short traverse.
Top of P1, looking back across short traverse.
Rock Climbing Photo: leading the 2nd pitch of pp
leading the 2nd pitch of pp
Rock Climbing Photo: dave on the traverse on the first pitch of PP
dave on the traverse on the first pitch of PP
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff getting into the biz on PP, Tallulah, GA
Jeff getting into the biz on PP, Tallulah, GA
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on PP 10/2008
Climbers on PP 10/2008
Rock Climbing Photo: Primitive Paradox topo; my first stab at using the...
BETA PHOTO: Primitive Paradox topo; my first stab at using the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Start here
BETA PHOTO: Start here

Comments on Primitive Paradox Add Comment
Show which comments
By UncleBen
From: Steele, AL
Mar 29, 2007

Leader should be mindful of the follower beginning the traverse at the top of P1...throw in a few pieces along the way.
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Nov 9, 2008

At the start of the second pitch, there is a large scary flake that is right on the belay ledge. I hadn't noticed it in the past but when I stepped on this time, it shifted. Be careful of this thing.
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Jan 1, 2009

Great climb! Harder than I remembered, but maybe I was just having a bad day. Leading the final moves on P2 are what I'd call the crux of the climb; I blew it and took a nice long fall.
By burlap submariner
Dec 11, 2009

is there a possible third pitch to this route?
By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 15, 2010

Really an excellent climb. I stopped here on the way from ATL to T-Wall and was really impressed. Beautiful area and both this route and Mescaline Daydream were well-protected and high-quality.
By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Jan 28, 2013

I can't believe I waited five years to get on this. This is one of the best 5.9s I have done anywhere.
By Gable
Dec 10, 2014

Fantastic stemming, especially on the 1st pitch.

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