Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Main Wall
Select Route:
A Rememberance of Jeff S 
Autumn Gold T 
Backseat Delilah T 
BT Express T 
Diagonal, The T 
Digital Delight T 
Flying Frog T 
Flying Squirrel T 
Highly Wired T 
I Yam What I Yam T 
Into the Country (aka Out in the Country) T 
Mescaline Daydream T 
Primitive Paradox T 
Punk Wave T 
Rapture of the Steep T 
Truth or Consequences T 
Wings of Wallenda T 

Primitive Paradox 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Shannon Stegg - 1978
Page Views: 4,671
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Scott Perkins leads the exposed second pitch of Pr...

Description 

A great climb on beautiful rock, Primitive Paradox is well protected but strenuous in places. The exposure is some of the nicest in the gorge.

P1 - start up an easy slab into a right-facing corner. Continue up the corner to mount a shallow ledge, then traverse left on the ledge to a bolted belay. 100'

P2 - from the belay, move slightly right, then climb another short right-facing corner (pro is a little hard to find here). Continue up a blocky face to a right-leaning, right-facing corner. Climb this to another ledge; make a mantel finish on slopey holds to reach a bolted anchor. 100'


Location 

Starts a short walk down the trail from where it intersects the cliff; about 20' right of BT Express. Rap from the bolted anchor at the top; a 60-meter rope is probably just long enough to get you to the ground.


Protection 

Small to medium gear (nuts, cams, tricams). Bolted belays/anchors.



Photos of Primitive Paradox Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 1 of Primitive Paradox, Tallulah Gorge, GA.
Pitch 1 of Primitive Paradox, Tallulah Gorge, GA.
Leading P2 of Primitive Paradox on a gorgeous New Year's Day.  Photo by Jody Jacobs.
Leading P2 of Primitive Paradox on a gorgeous New ...
Top of P1, looking back across short traverse.
Top of P1, looking back across short traverse.
Jeff getting into the biz on PP, Tallulah, GA
Jeff getting into the biz on PP, Tallulah, GA
leading the 2nd pitch of pp
leading the 2nd pitch of pp
dave on the traverse on the first pitch of PP
dave on the traverse on the first pitch of PP
Primitive Paradox topo; my first stab at using the nifty BetaCreator app.
BETA PHOTO: Primitive Paradox topo; my first stab at...
dave following 2nd pitch of PP
dave following 2nd pitch of PP
Climbers on PP 10/2008
Climbers on PP 10/2008
Comments on Primitive Paradox Add Comment
Show which comments
By Br'er Rabbit
From: The Briar Patch
Mar 29, 2007

Leader should be mindful of the follower beginning the traverse at the top of P1...throw in a few pieces along the way.

By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Nov 9, 2008

At the start of the second pitch, there is a large scary flake that is right on the belay ledge. I hadn't noticed it in the past but when I stepped on this time, it shifted. Be careful of this thing.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Jan 1, 2009

Great climb! Harder than I remembered, but maybe I was just having a bad day. Leading the final moves on P2 are what I'd call the crux of the climb; I blew it and took a nice long fall.

By burlap submariner
Dec 11, 2009

is there a possible third pitch to this route?

By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 15, 2010

Really an excellent climb. I stopped here on the way from ATL to T-Wall and was really impressed. Beautiful area and both this route and Mescaline Daydream were well-protected and high-quality.

By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Jan 28, 2013

I can't believe I waited five years to get on this. This is one of the best 5.9s I have done anywhere.