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Shady Side West
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Primeval Atmosphere 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: M. Tupper, E. Tupper
Page Views: 190
Submitted By: grk10vq on Feb 3, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Closed March 15 through June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A doozie from the word "climbing", this highly sequential, highly sustained route will perplex or just plain upset most climbers.

Gripping at its nicest with clenched fists at their finest, you may just develop carpel tunnel after a solid strike at this route. Three fingered pockets, long reaches, a difficult to read sequence...whoa nelly!

There's a lot of climbing in this short 40 feet, and while all of it is great, there's a good chance you won't enjoy it until its over.


Location 

The fourth route from the right at the Shady Side West.


Protection 

Four bolts and an anchor.



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By Marius vanderMerwe
From: Saint George, UT
Jan 23, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a PG13

First bolt is high off the ground with a dangerous landing area (and for me the bottom moves felt like the hardest on the route). I suggest bringing your stick clip or do as a top rope.

By John Groh
Dec 2, 2013

Absolutely awesome. Thin and technical, and almost dead vertical through the first few bolts. A must do if you're in the area. I imagine the start might be harder for shorter people. Bring your fanciest of footwork.