Prime Time Climb
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1.3 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad |
FA: | Harrison & Stuberg, 1981 |
Page Views: | 749 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Sep 27, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Attention: CLOSURE - the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has placed a closure for a confirmed turkey vulture nesting as of 7/3/20. This applies to Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, The Squeamish, and Nobody's Home.
As of 9/13/19, the turkey vulture closure was lifted. The nest is empty.
Attention: the Eldorado Canyon SP staff has informed us that Heart of Gold, Rush Buick, Emergency Brake, Nobody's Home, and The Squeamish are closed until further notice for turkey vulture nesting. Please respect this closure. This notice came out Aug. 22, 2019.
Description
The climb is so-so with a good section near the top. The climb starts with an easier wide crack that gets thiner and harder. A good stance comes just before the overhanging jamming crux. This route has some merit in its proximity to GOOD routes like Die Heeda Rule (which is just 6-8 feet right of PTC). The area favorites Brother Jug and Tombstone are just down and right from there as well.
Prime Time Climb has a hard and definite crux that will work most people a little on their thin-off-size jamming. The actual difficulty is hand size-dependent. The problem for smaller folks will be reach, then problem for large folks will be hand-size. If you get to the crux and are 'not ready for prime time', you can bail off out to the right and do the 5.9 variation by that name.
There are some fixed anchors to rap on Hawk Eagle, but if you go, take some long webbing and add a few or replace some. The nearest set to this climb are just down the hill above Bowling Alley.
0 Comments