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Dylan stabbing for a foothold in the layback. It ...
This route has three distinct sections, and a number of variations.
The lower section is a strenuous layback. Take this up to the shallow alcove (similar to the alcove on "Chicago"). From here, launch up using face holds until you can sink your hands in horizontal crack. This may look dubious on sight, but the holds are there (like "Brinton's Direct") and there is even some gear. For the final 6-8 feet, move left. The top-out on the ledge is always dirty.
You could continue to the top of the bluff (5.7 or 5.8 I think), but most people stop here and walk off to the side toward the Leaning Tower gully.
Variations: for the lowest part, you can TR on or just to the left of the rib's arete - it wouldn't make a great lead. At the top, instead of moving left you can struggle straight up through the last alcove, making this a 5.10 - this has good gear.
On the back wall of Pseudo Hawk's Nest, between "Death and Disfiguration" and "Bloody Mary." Start to the left of the detached pillar below D&D, in the right-facing dihedral.
Gear to 1 or 1.5 inches, plus some bigger pieces for the belay at the top.
BETA PHOTO: Prime Rib, Degrade Your Sister Direct & Degrade Yo...
|By Dmitriy Litvak|
From: Pacifica, CA
Nov 26, 2009
rating: 5.9+ PG13
Nice lead with a little gearless run above thin gear towards the top. Don't skip any gear ops. Should be attempted by a confident 9+ leader only. Gave it pg13 based on the difficulty of finding good gear in 1 spot. Is this right?
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
Aug 8, 2010
rating: 5.9+ R
I would agree with Dmitriy. The gear is decent through the layback lower section... a #6 BD stopper (by the way, mine is stuck in the route... if you retrieve it, I'd like it back) and after that at a good stance you can get a yellow C3 in the crack off to the right of the route. From there it's pretty run out until a nice horizontal ledge unless you chuck a brass offset in one of the shallow cracks or trust a pretty dismal green C3. At the ledge a #1 C4 fits perfect and a .75 C4 fits nicely in a crack to the right of the upper crux (5.9+). Ledge is huge and very dirty but a good top out.
|By Trad Nanny|
Sep 27, 2010
rating: 5.9+ R
I climbed up the rib using the side pulls on the right as well as the holds on the left side with a good rest on the ledge to the left of the alcove. Good gear to start but all I got was manky wires at the alcove. Then a healthy run-out to the horizontal for good pro. Wasps almost ate me alive on this one.
Climbing wasn't as good as I hoped.