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Funk Rock City
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Prime Directive S 
Red Hot Chilli Pepper T,S 
Rite of Passage T 
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Prime Directive 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: D. Lutes, N. Strickland, 1992
Season: any
Page Views: 2,307
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 4, 2006

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BETA PHOTO:

Description 

One of the better routes in the Red. Climb up moderate territory on the arete past several clips and out onto a face, which is still moderate. Reach out over a bulging roof (still not hard) and start pawing up the real business, which are very small edges and a crappy scoop. I can't imagine that these have gotten any larger with traffic, so it would not surprise me if the route is a sandbag by now. No less, it is long, exposed and unquestionably fun.

Location 

At the far right end of Funk Rock City, not far past Heastone Surfer, you walk out around and left of a huge corner/prow that is L'Ile Au Ciel and see a bolted arete and face. This is Prime Directive.

Protection 

11 clips to the anchors.


Photos of Prime Directive Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Enjoying the stunning arete of Prime Directive.
Enjoying the stunning arete of Prime Directive.
Rock Climbing Photo: Beginning up the long arete.
Beginning up the long arete.
Rock Climbing Photo: Super rad features on this route
Super rad features on this route

Comments on Prime Directive Add Comment
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By PatrickBecerra
From: Hazel Park, MI
Feb 23, 2016
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Spoilers:

Don't try to pull the roof. There is a pretty good double hand ledge, and then a decent slot a little higher, but these lead nowhere. Instead, from the two good ledges just below the roof, creep out to the right around the arete. There are a couple decent feet, and a slopey ledge about one pad deep. Inch along this to a bigger ledge up and to the right, then pull and step on delicate feet up to a big pocket, then inch back left to the bolt above the roof.

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