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 ADVANCED
Seal Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Archaeopteryx T 
Choose Life S,TR 
East Face North Side/Seal Rock T 
East Face South Side T 
Jade Gate T 
Misbehaven T,TR 
Primate T,TR 
Sea of Joy S 
Shortcut (East Face) T 
Skin Flute T,TR 
Southwest Face T 
Supercell S 
Thunder Muscle S 

Primate 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Steve Dieckhoff, Haven Iverson
Page Views: 3,105
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Aug 12, 2001

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On the first ascent.
Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route takes a direct line up the overhanging south face of Seal Rock, ending in a deep water groove which continues up the slab to the rock's summit. It starts more or less halfway along the south face of Seal Rock and has a large, flat boulder at its start. The line can also be recognized by a deep break at mid-height and by the bulging black streak which gives way to the upper water groove.

Start 15 feet down and left of the right-facing corner and boulder up past a horn into a left-trending band of huecos and pockets. Follow this to the break (12a s). Load the break up with as much as you've got (1-5" cams) and punch it up the black streak via continuous climbing on perfect stone (5.13 s/vs). A tube chock below the upper crux held a short whipper on toprope, but if it failed would deposit you on the deck 70+ feet below.

This route was done headpoint style and the gear was pre-placed on toprope prior to the lead. It climbs some of the strangest, most colorful water-sculpted sandstone in the Flatirons, yielding moves more akin to limestone tufa climbing than your typical Fountain fare.

It is a 90 foot pitch.


Protection 

If you're setting up a top-rope, bring two 100+ foot lengths of static cord to rig the anchor. One you can tie off to a bomber horn high on the left (south) side of Seal Rock's slabby east face. Rappel down off this horn and rig your second rope to a set of old double bolts at the lip of the wall, just uphill from the watergroove which is Primate. Run the ropes into the water groove and run a 60 meter cord through them. Rappel down, placing directionals to help you stay in.

For leading: Double cams up to 5", one set of RP's, one medium (green) tube chock, one #00 Metolius TCU, one (red) Lowe ball



Photos of Primate Slideshow Add Photo
Beta map for Primate, part one.
Beta map for Primate, part one.
Coming up on the key Big Bro placement.
Coming up on the key Big Bro placement.
Pocket traverse to the break, on the first half of Primate.
Pocket traverse to the break, on the first half of...
Comments on Primate Add Comment
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By Thomas Jensen
Jul 14, 2003

MattI respect your ethics in climbing this route! I think that the future of hard climbing will be a return to the idea that we should climb the rock as it is offered to us and change ourselves instead of the rock in the process! So many lines get bolted on the front range that really could be "safely" protected using gear.Lead the way!

Kudos!

By Anonymous Coward
Apr 1, 2004

I respect your ethic and bold manner and the fact that you're wearing a helmet on a dangerous route. The kids have someone to look up to, Matt.Kudos

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 2, 2004

"I am not a role model, I am a basketball player."-Charles Barkley

By Anonymous Coward
Apr 2, 2004

Geez, my mistake. I really thought you were wearing a black Protec like you always do at the roller-derby. You are still a hero to many, many underpriviledged children.Kudos and CheersEl Beardo

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 7, 2004

5.13 vs. That is some proud climbin' dude brah! (I wish I could climb that hard)