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Unsorted Routes:

Primal Urge 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Paul Lanz & Daryl Roth, November 1988
Page Views: 323
Submitted By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" on May 17, 2010
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Description 

This is a vastly sandbagged climb at Shelf! It is three climbs in one with three cruxes. Do a boulder problem start. There is a difficult mid-way sequence with possible ledge out and a final roof problem.


Location 

It is at the far North end of the Contest Wall (west side of Sand Gulch).


Protection 

8-10 bolts.



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By Walnuts
Dec 19, 2012

FA: Paul Lanz & Daryl Roth, November 1988.

By damonachey
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

This is a great route, but the 'hangers' are down-right scary. They almost look like hand cut sheet metal (not like other angle iron hangers in the area) bent 90 degrees with a hole drilled in them with no markings or ratings.

In addition, the third bolt at the end of a large runout that protects the crux moves will flex with a light bouncing from a static hang under my weight of only 140 lbs.

Nice route, but be careful.

By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Feb 28, 2014

Nice line..I remember the spooky clip above the ledge..off of a little crimp!