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Primal Scream 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: J. and R. Rossiter
Page Views: 242
Submitted By: Steve Annecone on May 28, 2005
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This nice line starts just left of the obvious offwidth (On-Slot) at the far right end of the crag. Work up into the left-leaning, curving crack and follow the crack to a horizontal break (5.9+). Continue up the aesthetic crack system to a small roof. Suddenly the holds get much smaller.

Set some good pro (small cam and then nuts or RPs), then traverse right (crux) on poor feet and very small holds to the top of On Slot. Pass the bush near the top and belay at a bolt plus medium cams on a ledge just below the summit ridge. Descend by climbing down into the loose gully immediately to the south back to the base.

It is a nice climb but only a brief bit of hard climbing. Originally rated 12a, most will find this a very soft rating by Eldo standards and hence an 11d rating seems more realistic.


Protection 

Small Eldo rack including nuts, RPs, and small to medium cams. There's a bolt at the top plus use a green or red Camalot to set up an anchor.



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