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To find this route, follow directions to the 2150 Wall (brief directions can be found in the description for the route "Serious Power Outage". Primal Scream is about 100 feet left of the 2150 wall. A 10 foot tall detached flake/pillar marks the base of this route.
As one of the few 5.9s in this neck of the woods, this route sees a decent amount of traffic. Primal Scream is one of those routes that isn't great, but isn't bad. There are actually a couple moves on it that are interesting (and a bit unsettling for some reason). Just kind of awkward through the crux. This route is a good one to really concentrate on pulling youself into the wall with your toes and hips. It is also good for warming up a bit before jumping on the 2150 wall routes.
At the pillar mentioned above, proceed upwards by chimney/stem/liebacking either side of the pillar and mantel on top. If I remember right, there is a bolt in the chimney that appears and reappears as the years go by, but the climbing is very easy through this section. Gingerly start moving up and slightly right. Clip a few bolts on the way up (it will be very tempting to step back to your right onto a ramp). A few balancy barn door instigating moves and a slap around the left side of the arete/flake will get you through the dificulties. A couple of fun highsteps onto nice ledges and you will be at the anchor in no time.
Book says 4 bolts and anchors, but for some reason I want to say that it is 5 bolts and anchors (?).
Nick working past the missing hanger next to the s...
On top of pillar, clipping first bolt about 15 fee...
Nick stretching above the 2nd clip.
BETA PHOTO: The small roof above his head is 9+ crux. montay'...
BETA PHOTO: Crux.
Readying for a fast rap.
My brother Clay - Ride 'em, COWBOY!
|Comments on Primal Scream
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jan 17, 2003
A good route, with a funky selection of bolts. I would give it a star if it were longer and didn't have the funky start. It puts you in to very awkward positioning, which fits the grade perfectly. The shunts on top are in need of repair!