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Unsorted Routes:

Primal Scream 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,000
Submitted By: montay on Jan 1, 2001
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My brother Clay - Ride 'em, COWBOY!
10/12/13.

Description 

To find this route, follow directions to the 2150 Wall (brief directions can be found in the description for the route "Serious Power Outage". Primal Scream is about 100 feet left of the 2150 wall. A 10 foot tall detached flake/pillar marks the base of this route.

As one of the few 5.9s in this neck of the woods, this route sees a decent amount of traffic. Primal Scream is one of those routes that isn't great, but isn't bad. There are actually a couple moves on it that are interesting (and a bit unsettling for some reason). Just kind of awkward through the crux. This route is a good one to really concentrate on pulling youself into the wall with your toes and hips. It is also good for warming up a bit before jumping on the 2150 wall routes.

At the pillar mentioned above, proceed upwards by chimney/stem/liebacking either side of the pillar and mantel on top. If I remember right, there is a bolt in the chimney that appears and reappears as the years go by, but the climbing is very easy through this section. Gingerly start moving up and slightly right. Clip a few bolts on the way up (it will be very tempting to step back to your right onto a ramp). A few balancy barn door instigating moves and a slap around the left side of the arete/flake will get you through the dificulties. A couple of fun highsteps onto nice ledges and you will be at the anchor in no time.


Protection 

Book says 4 bolts and anchors, but for some reason I want to say that it is 5 bolts and anchors (?).



Photos of Primal Scream Slideshow Add Photo
Meaghan nearing the crux.
Meaghan nearing the crux.
Bird's eye.
Bird's eye.
Nick working past the missing hanger next to the starting pillar.
Nick working past the missing hanger next to the s...
On top of pillar, clipping first bolt about 15 feet, of easy climbing, off the ground.
On top of pillar, clipping first bolt about 15 fee...
Brandi Bracht is giving a somewhat more urbane scream.  It will become more primal as she ascends.
Brandi Bracht is giving a somewhat more urbane scr...
Nick stretching above the 2nd clip.
Nick stretching above the 2nd clip.
Readying for a fast rap.
Readying for a fast rap.
The small roof above his head is 9+ crux.  montay's description of "unsettling" and "awkward through the crux" were very accurate.
BETA PHOTO: The small roof above his head is 9+ crux. montay'...
Crux.
BETA PHOTO: Crux.
Meaghan ascends the right side of the small pillar.
Meaghan ascends the right side of the small pillar...
Comments on Primal Scream Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jan 17, 2003

A good route, with a funky selection of bolts. I would give it a star if it were longer and didn't have the funky start. It puts you in to very awkward positioning, which fits the grade perfectly. The shunts on top are in need of repair!