Since this route was first climbed, a new sequence has been found which lowers the grade to 12+ and makes the second crux considerably more esthetic. West coast climber, Thad Friday, unlocked the sequence by climbing out left to a block side pull before moving right onto the crimp ladder face.
Grunting and growling on incredible stone; a typical Zeus wall experience and this one does not disappoint. Climb up the blocky 20 foot start to a small perch, placing a couple pieces along the way just in case. A slip here would be a 150 feet down. Stick clip the first 2 bolts from the perch and fire a big, unnerving move to the lip of the roof. Get re-established, then work out left and power your way through the second crux. From here nice technical face climbing leads to a balancy finish at the anchors.
Far left of Zeus wall just before turning the corner to Catnip, there is a roof/arête feature 20' up with 2 obvious bolts.
6 bolts, anchors, and a couple TCU's for the start
Greg Loomis holding the first reach crux. Photo b...
Sep 6, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Great route! Very bouldery cruxes on perfect stone with wild exposure.