|Type:||Sport, 4 pitches, 270'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||R. Rossiter and Bob Horan, 1997|
|Submitted By:||Bruce Pech on Jul 29, 2002|
|Comments on Primal Cinema||Add Comment|
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By Alton R.
From: Boulder, Co
Nov 3, 2013
I climbed this route today mostly by accident. Still had a great time nonetheless.
After the roof on the first pitch of Strange Cargo, I continued up through the corner past the anchor out right for Primal Cinema as I was headed for the next belay on SC.
Roughly 15 below the SC belay I saw a line of bolts heading right. The climbing looked enticing, so I headed that way thinking this may be SC and it goes back left. I had taken about 22 draws to the link the first 2 and had enough for the forseeable future.
After climbing diagonally up and right about 50 feet, a lower angle small, right-facing corner with bolts on the left appears. I ended up clipping the first two bolts of this and then doing a thin traverse over right to the belay on top of the second pitch of Autumn. (Traverse lower then you think for this as going higher is at least 10+ and would be a bad fall if the follower went the same way.)
Now we were set up to do the final headwall for our second pitch.
For this mega-pitch, I clipped 17 bolts and used a few runners. The pitch ended up being about 200 feet in total. It was a pretty fun journey that far up the wall in one pitch.
I'd call this a Primal Cinema "variation" at about the same grade.